Storage Bed: Reclaiming the Unused Space! (Captains Bed)

Have you ever thought that your bed is a waste of space?
Or get disheartened by garbage (
Or something some people call it \")
It is always forgotten under the bed.
I realize that the way to solve these two problems is to have a storage bed.
It allows you to use the space more efficiently, keeping everything clean and organized.
In this Instructure, I will show you how to create a storage bed for less money than retail.
I find they usually retail for over $1000!
The finished price of this bed and headboard is between $300 and $400 and I finished it with the color I wanted!
This bed is a North American queen size bed with a total of six drawers.
I have used gorilla Glue and various brackets in many projects (
I will explain the brackets more in each step).
The very useful but unnecessary tool is the frame fixture (
It helps with drawers and legs). Tools List:-Hammer-Drill-Saw (
The circular saw can work, but the inclined saw is preferred)-Table saw-Sander-Frame Clamp-Measuring Tape-
List of materials :-Wood Glue-Finish Nails (several sizes)-Screws (several sizes)-Sandpaper (
Assorted cereals ranging from 60 to 220)-Lumber (
Exact numbers and sizes for each step)-Pre-
Dyed wood conditionerWood stain-Clear coat (e. g. varathane)Tools:-Saw-Frame Clamp-
HammerMaterials :-
2 \"complete the DingTalk-Wood Glue-
3 finish 2x6x8 start my build leg.
I finished 1x6 and cut 2 pieces for each leg, which is the height I want to reach at the bottom of the track (
I went with 12 inch. .
I cut 3 pieces for the other two legs.
5 inch long (width of a 2x4).
In the next steps, you will understand why.
I stick these pieces together, DingTalk them together with the finish, connecting two pieces at a time in the shape of L
Then I connected two of them together to make a square.
This is where the frame clip is used to keep everything Square.
Make sure that the two longer parts are adjacent and the two shorter parts are adjacent.
There will be some excess wood on one of the longer parts that can be removed with a table saw or a hand saw.
This is to allow the track to rest on shorter components. Tools:-Saw-Hammer-Drilling materials :-2 \"complete the DingTalk-
2 Complete 1x12x72 \"-
2 Complete 1x12x96 \"-
4 metal horns5/8\" screws-
The wooden glue assembly of the track is quite easy.
I\'m building this bed in my basement, so to illustrate that I had to remove it one day, I stuck two opposite corners and put a stand on the other two.
In this way, it can be taken apart and taken up the stairs.
Cut the guide rail into the length and width required for the size mattress you have and leave an inch of space around the mattress.
The Queen size mattress in Canada is 60 inch by 80 inch, so the interior size of the frame is 61x81.
When cutting the head and foot rails, be sure to consider the extra thickness of the side rails.
If the thickness of the track is 3/4 \", it must be doubled on the length of the head and foot tracksg. 61+3/4+3/4=62. 5.
Make sure the nail head is fixed and filled with wood filling and then polished with sand. Tools:-Drilling materials :-
8 shelf stands
5/8 \"connect the legs to the ironing boards on the rails and I put them on the rails as if the bed was upside down.
I used regular shelf stands for these joints because they are strong and cheap.
Put the shorter part of the leg on the track and the longer part in the frame.
No glue or nails in this step! Tools:-Saw-Drilling materials :-Wood Glue-2\" screws-2 2x4x8\'-
1 2x4x10 \"splints are splints that hold the plywood to the edge of the bed and the pallet.
They also reinforced the tracks.
Cut them into a little smaller than the space between rack brackets.
I stick the splint to the bottom of the track and screw it.
Because the legs of the bed are 3.
5 \"above the bottom of the track, they will support the plywood around the corner.
Layout on the pallet.
I set the spacing to \"center\" at least 12, but set to 8 near the center of the bed. Tools:-Saw-Drilling materials :-Joist hangers (
2 pallets each)(I used 14)-2x4x10\' (
1 for every 2 beams)(I used 4)-
1 1/2 \"the ironing board measures and cuts all the support beams.
If your tracks are correct, they should all be the same length.
Twist the hanger to the splint to secure the pallet.
I didn\'t screw the pallet onto anything they were sitting on the hanger for easy disassembly.
Use 2x4 scrap to set the height of the beam in the hanger to flush with the splint. Tools:-Hammer-Table saw-Saw-Drilling materials :-1 1/2\" screws-Wood Glue-5 1x4x8\'-
The next part to be built is the drawer frame.
I used 1x4 for this section, I removed the spinner through the table and polished each section.
This is the part in the drawer.
These are built on two longer sides to fit between the legs.
Make sure the frames do not touch the ground, as they may leave the legs out of contact with the ground if the floor is uneven.
These frames are just made up of two longer sections and some vertical blocks.
Glue is screwed on each joint.
Make sure that each opening of the drawer is equal.
I then measured the thickness of the front of the door station drawer on the middle block, which is 1x2 (
I use 1/2 \"ply\" and 3/4 \"thick 1x2 on the front of the drawer, so I set the door block back 1 1/4 from the edge of the finished product. Tools:-Drilling materials :-
1 1/2 \"screwsI flipped the drawer frame 3/4 from the surface of the guide rail \".
I attached it tightly to the bottom of the splint.
Screw into the frame as they will support the drawer. Tools:-Saw-Hammer-Drilling materials :-3 1x2x8\'-
1 sand 1/2 plywood with 4 × 8 (
Use in multiple steps)-Finish Nails-Screws-
Wood glueTo built a fake drawer front at the foot of the bed and I built a frame with 1x4 and 1x2.
I then slide a piece of drawer front plywood into the frame behind the center block and Side block.
I then put 1x2 on the plywood to mimic the look on the front of my drawer. Tools:-Saw-Drilling materials :-1 1/2\" screws-
6 1x4x8 \"build the frame to install the drawer slide, use 1 x 4S and attach them as a support beam to the opposite back of the door block from behind.
Make sure there is a gap between the bottom of the 1x4 pallet and the bottom of the front frame of the drawer (see picture).
Use blocks to connect each pallet to each other to harden them and make the space uniform. Tools:-
Table saw material :-
1/2 \"sandpaper plywood of 4\' x8\' plate (
Use in multiple steps)-1 1x6x10\' (drawer front)
Interesting start now!
Whether you\'re using butt joints, cookies, rabbits or whatever, you can make drawers as you like.
I use the hand joint.
Looking at these images will help you better understand what these works look like than I explained.
The side and back of the drawer are 1/2 and the front attached to the front of the drawer is 1x6.
Behind and in front of the drawer is only dad (
It\'s actually called plows because they\'re with grain.
The cut at the bottom of the drawer is 3/8 layers.
The sides of the drawer provide half the thickness for other parts and the end of the dad.
I cut all the saw on the table.
The finished drawer front is built and connected later. Tools:-Hammer-
Frame flap material :-
Pre-cut drawerWood Glue-
1 \"complete the DingTalk assembly drawer and add a lot of glue to each rabbet and dado.
Then insert the bottom of the plywood drawer into the dado on the back of the drawer, then insert the sides, and pin the sides to the back of the drawer.
I used 1 \"smooth nails because they only stick together when the glue dries.
Next connect the front with the same method.
When you nail the joints, use the frame clip to hold the drawer parts together.
Remove the frame fixture once all joints are nailed.
This can be a very time consuming process, but I finished six drawers in about an hour and a half. Tools:-Saw-Hammer-(optional)
Material :-
Sand paper 1/2 \"plywood of 1 \'x8 (
Same as used in other steps)-5 1x2x8\'-1 \"complete the DingTalk-
The wood painted the plywood on the front of the drawer, making them slightly smaller than the space they were going to go.
Cut 1x2 s to fit flush with the outer edge of the plywood.
Like me, you can use Mitter or docking.
At the top of each drawer, make a drawer on the back.
I do this by placing 1x2 on my mitzvah saw and then sliding sideways along the fence, lowering the saw blade a little each time it passes through.
The drawer is very smooth.
** I do not recommend using this method.
I have a lot of experience doing this with mitre saw, but if it is not done correctly, it can lead to serious injury or amputation * if you have a drawer, use the router to pull the drawer, or cut it out with a hand
You can also pull the drawer bought by the store to the front of the drawer.
To assemble the front of the drawer, apply a layer of glue on the back of 1x2 s, and then pin them to the outside edge of the plywood.
Nails go through the back so no holes can be filled. Tools:-Drilling materials :-Drawer slides-
3/4 \"ironing board you can buy any type of drawer slide you like.
Depending on the type you purchased, the installation may vary.
Follow the installation instructions for a specific drawer slider.
Make sure to install the drawer slide so that the drawer stops further than the drawer slide, which will ensure close closing. Tools:-Drilling materials :-1\" screws-
1 1/2 \"scewsTo connect the front of the drawer to put the drawer in the slide and push it all the way.
Place the front of the drawer in the space and make sure to leave a small gap on all edges.
Screw the front of the drawer from the inside of the drawer.
You may need to place the gasket between the front of the drawer and the drawer to make sure everything is flush.
Use 1 \"screw when screwing into the center of the front and 1 1/2\" screw around the edge. Tools: -saw-drill-
HammerMaterials :-1\" screws-1\" nails-13 1x4x8\"-
2 1x4x8 \"to build the headboard and cut 10 1x4 s to the width of the bed.
Put them tightly on the floor with the good side down. Place 4 1x4s (
48 \"in this case)
Perpendicular to your Batten, 1 to 2 of the board is suspended on the Batten.
Put the screws into each slat each vertical.
Be sure to keep the slats tight with minimal clearance.
Once assembled, flip and nail 1x2 pieces to the top and nail a piece to both sides.
Then nail a plane of 1x4 at the top seam and the top of 1x2. Tools:-sander-paint brushes-rags-drop cloths-
Vacuum material :-sandpaper-pre-
Dyed wood conditionerstain or paint-clear finish (e. g. varathane )Sand everything.
It will take a while, but there will be a return in the end.
Be sure to suck all the dust off. Apply a pre-
The wood is dyed to prevent a disorganized appearance.
Test your stain or paint inside one of the tracks to get the right tone.
Apply stains according to the direction on the jar.
After applying the stain, apply a clean coating.
Use a few coats to get better results.
The dyeing process took me 3 days in total. You\'re done!
Now you can pat a piece of plywood on the pallet and throw it on the mattress.
I found this bed to be very strong and will probably continue to be used in the next few years.
Take the time on this project and make it perfect as you may spend 1/3 of your time on this bed every day.
If you have any questions, please ask any questions and post your finished version in the comments for your review.