/* I submitted this project in the fourth Epilog challenge.
The project was accepted, but no final decision was made before the judgement was made.
Thank you to everyone who voted and congratulate the finalists!
*/Hello fellow DIYers.
I am a college student but you can call me Disco Stu for short.
As my name suggests, I am a college student and I am cheap.
But don\'t think I like disco just because I said you can call me Disco Stu.
/Quick introduction-
Why am I on this site and what I want to accomplish.
Please feel free to skip if you are tired for a long time
In 2008, I started college at the University of California, Berkeley. half of the first semester, the economy collapsed.
In the second semester, I tried to maintain balance of payments, and after the end of the school year, I quit due to financial constraints and moved back to OC.
To save money, I spent two years studying courses at the local community college.
The university has always been expensive and a relatively difficult period in the life of students, but it has become worse in recent years.
If you graduate before 2007, you will feel lucky.
No matter how much debt you have now or what worthless degree you get.
If you\'re in college now, or ready to go right away, cheer up --
The worst has not arrived yet!
Due to the nature of today\'s economy, anyone now, especially college students, can really appreciate a good price.
I will go back to Berkeley to finish my computer science degree and start to change my spending habits further and try to expand every dollar.
I will document my efforts on this site, hoping to help my college classmates, or anyone else who wants to save a few dollars here and there.
I will try to post about 2-
There are 3 major projects each year trying to give college DIYers a beautiful way to save money, get some features and useful things, while also getting them out of the shackles of DIY monkeys.
I will post mini too-
If I have any project.
This is the first of many projects I currently plan.
In 2008, I went to the local Wally supermarket and bought myself a good futon.
It is rolled tubular steel with good welds and comes with a decent mattress for $100.
Because of its size, I had to give it to a friend when I moved.
Now I\'m going back to college. I want another one.
Unfortunately, the current price of the futon, like the price of the pet stone, is very ridiculous.
However, unlike the pet rock, making a futon at home is not as easy as some Elmer glueeyes.
I searched the internet for a good set of futon instructions.
I mean the first page of Google by saying \"all Internet.
There is a lot of information scattered here and there, and many of the entire project pages are old. Really old.
For example, 1989 \"I typed these instructions while playing aggressive textbased MUD game. . . \" old.
Surprisingly, I can\'t find a whole meat
A suitable teaching plan for futon.
So I started to change that.
I have collected what I can collect and have summarized all of this on this project page for you to view.
If you want to build a futon all your life (
If I can say that, expectations for life are low)
You want to get the right instructions from someone who knows what they\'re doing, and you\'re going the wrong place.
I have few skills in carpentry and metal processing.
I only have two power tools: a B & D cordless drill and a Dremel 300 that I trust.
All I have is a good set of basic hand tools and very patient.
I suggest you do the same if you want to try this project.
As a beginner, my guidance and my assumptions will take into account the beginner DIYer.
In order to qualify for the proper futon in my book, it must have :-
Comfortable cushionA complex-
Sports folding mechanism (ie.
Something more complicated than bi
Folding hinge design). -A sturdy frame. -Modularity (
Decomposition Capability for Mobile, repair, replacement or cleaning purposes)
Please remember to use complete safety gear, including but not limited to working gloves, eye protection, and face masks/respirator.
I\'m not responsible for anything stupid you do.
If you do something great in the process of building this futon, I have all the intellectual property rights to it. Patent pending.
All rights reserved. No take-backs.
If you\'re ready, let\'s get started.
If not, The Simpsons may be re-running now.
If you are lucky, you will not suck.
But don\'t hold your breath). This is a futon.
Part is the sofa, part is the bed, but much cooler than the sofabed.
If the multi-function furniture is Transformers, then the futon will be Optimus Prime: confident and low-key; the sofa-
The bed will be destroyed.
Garbage and hyphen.
In the process of building this, we need a powerful (
Hope beautiful)
An affordable piece of furniture will at least allow you to spend your college time with proper care.
The most important thing is to be comfortable.
However, it depends on you to a large extent.
I can recommend mat material and the way to make the mat itself, but their feelings about you and what you get for your money will have nothing to do with what I say or do.
In other words, you can only rely on yourself for comfort.
Just use your best judgment and try other methods if you want. This is a low-
Smaller futon.
The future framework will be about 23.
5 \"high, 28\" deep, 80 \"long.
If you include seats, it will be ~ 34 \"deep 42\" high.
It will be 54 \"deep 25 as a bed. 5\" high.
The combined mattress is 54 \"x 72 \".
This is a little shorter than the standard full.
The reason is that the standard plywood is only 48 \"wide and 24 is a factor of 48 and 72, so using 6 24\" x 27 \"cuts we can get away with it with one plywood.
If we make it the standard of 54 \"x 75\", we need two plywood sheets to fit the size we need (
Six 25 \"x 27\" pieces).
I realize that in reality we don\'t get two 24 pieces from 48 pieces.
Because of the saw, we will end up with a work of 24 \"and a work of 23. About 75 \"pieces.
But that\'s fine for our purposes.
Depending on the material you use and the amount you use, the thickness of the mat will vary but is expected to be 4-
My method is 5 inch thick.
For reference, my old futon had a 3-inch mattress and there was no problem sleeping on it.
For the sake of modularity, the mattress itself will be split into 6 parts of 24 \"x 27.
If I need to clean or replace/repair the seat, the ability to remove the seat widget is very important to me.
Of course, you can make the mattress as you like.
The seat will be about 16 \"on the ground where your legs hang.
The armrest is 23. 5\" high.
In the position of the bed, the bottom of the mattress is about 14 \"from the ground \".
You can easily build the entire futon with bolts and screws to reinforce the butt joint, but there will be a lot of visible hardware displays.
To maximize the beauty, I deliberately built this with as few bolts, screws or nails as possible.
The best way to reduce the number of visible fasteners is to reduce the number of actual fasteners.
Because of this, this futon is largely connected by a joint of Mao, Mao and hidden fasteners.
In fact, almost all major combined loads
The bearing is a kind of joint.
The only exception is the long pieces of the frame that are attached to the lap and reinforced with 2 bolts.
Other non
The main joint will be the pin in the joint.
The rear of the frame is reinforced with several screws (a pocket-hole joint)
But fundamentally, it is still a kind of connection.
Lack the sewing skills needed to make the mat with a removable lid, so the lid in this project is nailed to the wood.
If you know-
How to make the zipper cover more power to you.
Although I have used other materials as references, the design specified on this project is my own.
After a careful look at real life and dozens of other futons in photos and diagrams, they were pieced together.
It\'s not a copy of a single design, it\'s a mixture of them that contains some of my own simplified ideas.
I have done my best to give credit when it is due, but please do not hesitate to contact me if there is any dispute.
However, don\'t pull the apple on me and say I stole your rounded corners. It\'s a futon -
They basically look the same.
This design is the first draft.
I drew it once without making any major changes to it
Like my English composition.
Moreover, if it is something like my English composition, it can hardly pass.
If you build a naked
The bone version of this futon (
No additional aesthetic features, minimal cutting and hardware)
You\'re going to cost $110-
According to the material you already have on hand, the price range of $130.
As we move on, I will make a note of what is optional.
If you add all the optional aesthetic content, it will push up the cost by $130$150.
As always, prices and availability will vary depending on your location.
I suggest you read the whole instructions before you start the project as I will give a series of alternative instructions here and there.
You can mix and match these alternative directions with the direction of the custom futon I gave you.
The main direction I offer is how I can build my special futon.
The alternative I give will either make the project easier or it will be harder depending on what you are looking for in the futon.
If you are a complete beginner, I suggest that you follow my main instructions, word for word, and do not try to make any changes as you move forward.
Material: 1 4 \"x 8\" Bolt [$7]
Ix 2 \"x 4\" x 8 \'[$2. 50 each]
1 7/16 \"x 4\' x 8\' OSB sheath [$6]
2 nylon garage door rollers 【$3]Six yd. fabric [$ varies]
Wooden or plastic pins (2\'
Keep the diameter between 1/4 in and 1/2 in to make things easy)[$1]
Two 1/4 cross pin barrel nuts$2. 50]
Ten 1/4 \"hex nuts [$2. 00]Twenty-
[Gasket] four 1/4$2]
Sixteen hex bolts of 1/4 (
Twelve 3 \"long, four 2. 25\" long)[$4]
Six pairs of door hinges {
$1 ea @ dollar store]Wood screws]$4]One full-
Topper foam mattress]$25]
Six bags of 16 oz PolyFil [$3. 50 each]
Or eight standards.
Big Pillow 【]$4 each]
Or 4 24 \"x 48\" body pillows [$7 each]Old (clean)t-
Shirt or other fabric]free]
= Total = $108-$119 (plus fabric)
Optional material: wood glue (
Or any wood compatible glue)Stain (I used Cherry)Varnish (
I prefer satin or half.
Gloss of this item, but use whatever you want)Non-latex, semi-
Extra padding/cushion/pillow for more comfort (
You can also use the old pillow, just wash it first).
More power ZipperExtra hinges. 1. 5 \"wooden screws (
If there is no screw on the hinge)Tools: hand saw (carpenter saw)Fine cut saw (
Aka bird tail/pin saw, but you can get away with a small top saw or a steel saw)
Carving knife & hammerSquare fileScissorsTape measure urerc-
Or some other non-destructive, blunt tool to hammer the wood.
Don\'t use your forehead.
DingTalk gun with multi-purpose drill bit [#561]
And cutting guide electric drill (
Match your screws, bolts, pins, etc with the drill bit. )Sandpaper -
At least 40 to 120 tablets, but a little higher is OK.
Optional tool: bubble flat head carpenter square hole cutting machine for drilling paint brush
I don\'t own either of these projects, but if I do, it will definitely make this project easier)
These are the two saws I use: also see alternative #1/If you can cut wood at the home improvement store you purchased it would be ideal, A carpenter saw can save you a lot of physical labor.
Otherwise, be prepared to call your doctor as you will touch a lot of wood. . . with a saw.
Warm Tip: home improvement store (
I won\'t say which one, but let\'s say it rhymes with bone creepOh)
Wood cutting is not very accurate.
This is because the service they provide is mainly to help you install wood in your car, not to cut precisely.
Because of this, be prepared to do some saw or sanding no matter how you cut the wood.
The following is the length cutting (
Size cutting of plywood)
, Grouped by brackets, each bracket represents a piece of wood.
Gently mark the wound with a pencil in advance and wipe it off if necessary.
All the sizes here are inches.
As usual, measure twice, cut once, try not to lose any fingers.
/Comes with instructions that if you haven\'t noticed it yet, the 2x 4S is not actually 2 in x 4in.
They are a little smaller.
Same as 4 x 4S.
If you decide to replace anything with a replacement, be sure to take this into account.
My DingTalk is 1. 5\"x3. 5\", and 3. 5\"x3.
2 x 4S and 4x4 are 5 \", respectively \".
I think so is yours.
If not, please adjust all measurements in the rest of the steps as needed. //4x4[23, 23, 23, 23]2x4[37, 37, 21][37, 37, 21][37, 37, 21][37, 37, 21][39, 39, 14][39, 39, 14][
21, 10][28, 28, 21, 10][21, 10, 10]Dowel[
2, 2]Sheathing[24x26. 5, 24x26. 5, 24x26. 5, 24x26. 5, 24x26. 5, 24x26. 5]
Save all the leftovers.
If you have a problem cutting the sheath, I suggest you clamp the ruler (such as the yard bar) on the sheath and cut the wood using your Dremel multi-purpose drill bit.
Place Dremel (turned off)
On the edge that should be cut.
Make a small mark on the edge of the Dremel cutting guide.
Then, place the ruler at that mark and clamp it.
Go along the ruler with your cutting guide and you should have a perfect line.
However, I had no problem cutting it with a carpenter saw.
The sheath is slightly smaller than the specified 24 \"x 27.
This is because two pieces meet when folded.
27 will cause them to block each other. 26.
5. the work is very good.
You don\'t need to follow these cuts altogether.
I\'m just assuming you bought the wood I suggested on the previous page, but if you buy longer or shorter lengths, you can cut them as you like, as long as you have the ability to get all the necessary lengths.
Sprinkle a little sand on the wood to make it smoother.
Pay special attention to cuts.
Sand them down to avoid debris.
Also polish down the sharp edges of the sheath.
Clean the wood after polishing.
Wipe it with a clean, slightly wet cloth.
If you can squeeze water out of the fabric and there is too much water, it will dip into the wood.
You want the water to stay on the water and dry as soon as possible.
The sheath no longer needs to work. Set it aside.
If there is any sap on the wood, wipe the alcohol with a clean cloth.
It should dissolve and fall off immediately with a little elbow grease.
If the alcohol you use is high (90% or higher)
Because the water content is very low, you can use it very freely.
With a light pencil, or sticky
Note that you will use one between 1-6.
Please look at the picture for clarification.
This is mainly to help me communicate with you because it is easier to say 3 sides clockwise instead of clockwise until a flat surface is up and the surface with the hole points to the right.
Mark each of the same parts with continuous letters.
You will eventually get :-
21A to 21J-
37A to 37 H-
39A to 39D-
D-11 1128A and 28B-
14A and 14 bthen, as shown below, organize the wood into 3 piles.
This will help you to track which piece is which and make it easier to perform the same work on multiple pieces of wood.
Arm #1 armrest/legs2x4 [
28B, 21A, 21B, 14A, 14B]4x4[
23 A, 23 B, 23 C, 23D]
#2 # Struts2x4 [
39A, 39B, 39C, 39D, 10A, 10B, 10C, 10 D]
Mattress #3 Mattress frame 2x4 【
37A, 37B, 37C, 37D, 37E, 37F, 37G, 37 H, 21C, 21 D, 21E, 21F, 21G, 21 H
/See alternative #2/We will start by cutting the lap joint.
Large cut using Carpenter saw, small cut using bird tail saw.
Whenever cut, it helps to fix the wood on a stable surface. Work slowly.
Let the saw do the work for you. Don\'t force it.
Since we don\'t have power tools or benches with fixtures to get straight lines, please be aware of what you are doing.
We only have one chance to figure it out for the first time.
If you\'re worried about making a mistake, thencut -
Leave some material and Polish or archive it later.
It\'s best to bite and Polish in 5 minutes.
Cut off this joint. 37A-H-
Start 37A from the S1 front. -
Draw a vertical line in the center. -
Turn to S3 and draw the same line. -
Connect two lines by drawing a line in the center of s5. -
S3 up, at the end of S5, draw a horizontal line 2 \"from the edge \". -
Continue this line on the entire section on S1, S2 and s4. -
Start cutting the line on S2, cutting the vertical center line on S1 and s3. -
Now cut the S5 on this line until you reach the 2 \"horizontal line. -
Clean the corners with Square files. -
Gently polish the wound if needed. -
Repeat 37B to 37 H. -
If you put two pieces on one leg, they should measure 72 \"in total \". -
Put the pieces back in the pile. 39A-D-
Starting from 39A, S1 is up. -
Draw a vertical line in the center. -
Turn to S3 and draw the same line. -
Connect two lines by drawing a line in the center of s5. -
S3 up, at the end of S5, draw a horizontal line 3 \"from the edge \". -
Continue this line on the entire section on S1, S2 and s4. -
Start cutting the line on S2, cutting the vertical center line on S1 and s3. -
Now cut the S5 on this line until you reach the 3 \"horizontal line. -
Clean the corners with Square files. -
Gently polish the wound if needed. -
Repeat 39B to 39D. -
If you put two pieces on one leg, they should measure 73 \"in total \". -
Put the pieces back in the pile.
What we have to do now is tenons.
I will describe the method of making a Mao for a piece of work.
The remaining tenons will be created using the same basic method.
I will give the size of each piece. 39A-D:-Start with 39A.
Start with S1. -At the S6 end (
Across the thigh joint)
, Draw a horizontal line from the edge 1 \". -
Continue this line on S2, S3 and s4. -Turn to S6.
Draw four lines 0.
5 \"starts at the edges of S1, S2, S3 and s4. -
Continue these lines vertically along S1, S2, S3, and s4. -
Start cutting in every line you draw.
Stop when you reach an intersection line. -
Clean the corners with Square files and some slight sanding. -
Upon completion, you should have a small rectangle at the end of the post measurement 2. 5\"x0. 5\"x1\".
This is Mao. -
Repeat 39B to 39D. 21A-J:-
Cut a Mao at the S5 and S6 ends. Use 0.
For 39A-, 5 lines instead of 1 as described aboveD.
This will create a 2. 5\"x2. 5\"x0.
5 \"Mao on each end.
Return all the pieces to the corresponding heap.
This step involves cutting the armrest to make it more comfortable.
This step is completely optional and purely aesthetic.
It doesn\'t really add any features to the futon.
At the last minute of building this, I realized that I didn\'t like the idea of having a sharp angle on the armrest in case someone fell down and hit their head or something.
Hand-held rounded corners are also more comfortable compared to the rectangular end.
One thing I didn\'t plan on, but it finally happened, is that the texture of the wood is beautifully exposed at the rounded corners.
Some stains look better. Anyways:28A-B-
Start with 28, S1 facing up.
On the S5 edge, draw the marker 1 \"from s4 \". -
Draw another marker 1 from s2. -
When S1 is still up, draw a mark from s5 on S4 edge 1. -
Draw another mark from s5 on the edge of S2 1. -
Connect the marks, and there are two right-angled triangles in any corner. -
Cut these triangles with a saw. -
Round the sand on the edge. -
Repeat 28B/Note: Cut/polish them at the corners if 4x4 Corners stick out.
The holes we drilled will be used for wooden piles.
Plan properly.
Use the corresponding drill bit for your pin size.
The drilling method for all holes remains the same.
Just adjust the final hole size and depth of each hole.
The depth of the pin hole does not have to be precise, but it should be kept inside the ball-park.
Drill a hole :-
Mark the appropriate position first. -
Gently hammer into the wood with a small nail, or any small tip.
This will provide you with a starting point indent point for creating pilot holes. -
Place the wood on a stable surface, such as a work table or on the ground. -
Drill a small pilot hole using a small drill bit (such as 1/16.
Pilot holes must be as straight as possible.
Even if there is a slight deviation, it will deviate from the route. -
Move up to the next bit size. -
Continue to increase the bit size until the required hole diameter is reached.
/Note: you can start with the guide hole and move all the way to the final bit size, but using the gradually increasing bit will produce a more straight final hole, and prevent the drill bit from \"catching\" on the wood \".
/Dowwe we will drill out about 1 \"deep pin holes in all of the following components :-23 A-D-28 A-B-39 A-D-21 A-B-14 A-B-10 A-D23A-D:-
Draw a set of diagonal lines on S5.
At the Crossroads (the center)
Drill a pin hole. 28A-B:-
On S3, draw a vertical line in the center. -
Now draw two horizontal lines, one 2.
25 \"from the edge of S5, 1 2.
25 \"from s6 edge \". -(optional)
If you round the corner of the armrest, make the line 2.
75 \"from the edge of S5, 1.
75 \"off the edge of s6. -
Drill a pin hole at each intersection. 39A, 39C:-
On S4, draw a vertical line in the center. -
Draw a horizontal line 23 \"from S6 (the tenon). -
Drill a hole at the intersection. 39B, 39D:-
On S2, draw a vertical line in the center. -
Draw a horizontal line 23 \"from S6 (the tenon). -
Drill a hole at the intersection. 21A-B:-
On S2, draw a vertical line in the center. -
Find the center of the work and draw a horizontal line. -
Drill a hole at the intersection14A-B:-
On S5, draw a set of diagonal lines from each corner. -
Drill a hole at the intersection. 10A-D:-
On S5, draw a set of diagonal lines from each corner. -
Drill a hole at the intersection.
We will now drill holes for nuts and bolts.
The bolts I use are all 1/4 \"and I think you are using the same bolts as well.
If different sizes of nuts and bolts are used, adjust the drill bit accordingly.
Two bolts will be reinforced for each lap joint. 39A-D:-
S2 up, draw the horizontal line from the s5 edge within the joints 1 \"and 2. -
S2 up, draw a vertical center line on the inside of the joint. -
Drill all the way at the crossroads. -
Switch to a slightly larger bit or hole knife to sink the hole (
The drill bit must be large enough to hold the hex nut, hex bolt head and gasket). -
Drill to a depth of about 0 with a larger drill bit.
5 \"on the S4 side of the hole. -
Put the pieces aside. 37A-F:-
S2 up, draw a horizontal line inside the joint 0. 5\" and 1.
5 \"from the edge of s5. -
S2 up, draw a vertical center line on the inside of the joint. -
At the crossroads, six pieces are drilled all the way. -
Reverse the S4 side. -
Repeat the rest. 37G-H:-
We need to drill barrel nuts now.
If you don\'t use the barrel nut, just repeat 37A-Step F of 37G-H. -
S2 up, draw a horizontal line inside the joint 0. 5\" and 1.
5 \"from the edge of s5. -
S2 up, draw a vertical center line on the inside of the joint. -
Drill a hole at the intersection. 25\" deep.
Don\'t go on all the time. -
Then, at the top of the knee joint (S5)Draw a line 0.
5 \"from the edge of s4 \". -
Now draw an intersection center line from S2 to s4. -Drill a 1.
A deep hole in the intersection.
Use the right drill bit for barrel nut.
Mine is 13mm wide.
These holes should meet the other holes you drill.
We need to drill holes now to prepare mats. Sheathing:-
To \"breathe\" the mat, we will drill some holes in the sheath. \"-
Draw a line 6 \"from any edge of the sheath \". -
Repeat the other 3 sides. -
Drill a series of holes along this rectangle.
I ended up drilling six 2 \"holes along the top and bottom, but you can do a lot or very little as you like.
I used a 2 \"hole knife, but if you don\'t have a hole knife, use your biggest bit. -(optional)
If you\'re using a big drill bit instead of a hole cutter, draw another set of lines, but this time it\'s 10 \"away from the edge and drill holes at four intersections. -Note -
You can also solve this problem with Dremel because it won\'t be so beautiful. -
Feel free to add some holes if you don\'t feel like there are enough holes or the holes are too small.
Just don\'t drill in 3.
The edge of 5 \"because the mat is attached to the mattress frame.
/See also the last point of Option #4/drilling.
In this step, we will drill holes for nylon wheels and travel bolts.
Holes will enter 21g and 21 J, 37C-D, 21A and 21B. 21G:-
Starting at 21G, S2 is up. -Measure 9.
5 \"draw a horizontal line from S6 up. -
On S2, draw a vertical center line that intersects the horizontal line. -Drill a 0. 25\" wide 1.
A deep hole in the junction. 21J:-
Starting from 21J, S4 is facing up on the front. -Measure 9.
5 \"draw a horizontal line from S6 up. -
On S4, draw a vertical center line that intersects the horizontal line. -Drill a 0. 25\" wide 1.
A deep hole in the junction. 37C:-
S6 up, draw a horizontal line 2 \"from the edge of s4 \". -
Draw a vertical center line on s6. -
Drill a hole at the intersection
The width of the hole will be the width of the nylon roller axle.
The depth will be equal to the length of the axis minus 1. 5\". 37D:-
S6 up, draw a horizontal line 2 from the edge of s2. -
Draw a vertical center line on s6. -
Drill the same hole to 37C. 21A:-
S3 up, draw a vertical center line. -
Draw a horizontal line 2. 5 \"stay away from s6. -
Draw a horizontal line 17.
Distance s6 75 \". -
Draw a horizontal line 16. 5 \"stay away from s6. -
Drill 1 \"deep hole at two intersections in the nearest s5.
Make the hole wide enough to fit the hexagonal head of the bolt (
1/2 \"is usually good). -
Drill 1 \"deep hole at the intersection of the nearest s5.
The holes need to be wide enough to fit the nylon roller. -(Optional)
If the hole is too large to drill, use a square wiring with Dremel equal to the width of the nylon roller. 21B:-
Draw a vertical center line when S1 is up. -
Draw a horizontal line 2.
Distance s6 25 \". -
Draw a horizontal line.
25 from s5\"-
Draw a horizontal line 2.
25 from s5\"-
Drill 1 \"deep hole at two intersections in the nearest s5.
Hexagonal head that makes the hole wide enough to bolt-
Drill a 1 \"deep hole at the intersection closest to S5, wide enough to fit the nylon roller.
Use Dremel if needed. 23B:-
On S2, draw a vertical line in the center. -
Measure from S5 and draw a horizontal line 2 \"down \". -
At the intersection, drill a hole large enough to make it easy for the Bolts to get in and out. 23D:-
On S4, draw a vertical line in the center. -
Measure from S5 and draw a horizontal line 2 \"down \". -
At the intersection, drill a hole large enough to make it easy for the Bolts to get in and out.
This is the hardest and most tedious part of the project.
For this step, you will use Dremel with a multi-purpose cutting bit (or routing bit)
And cutting guide.
You will also use the chisel and hammer to clean the edges and corners.
Create an ad :-
Draw the outline of the handprint with a pencil (see below). -
Use Dremel with multi-purpose bits (or routing bit)
And cutting guide (
Set to low depth)
To track the outline of this ad. -
Gradually increase the depth of the cutting guide you pass each time. -
Make 5 to 6 passes until the required depth is reached. -
Remove most of the material from the center. -
Put de Lemel aside and pick up your chisel and hammer. -
Use the chisel and hammer to clean the edges and corners as much as possible. -
Lightly polished edges. -
Test with the corresponding tenon.
If the debris is not suitable, use sand (
Or more easily)
Until you get a perfect fit. 23A-
S3 up, draw a vertical line 0.
5 \"away from the edges of s2. -
Draw Another Line 1 from s2. -
Measure from S6 and draw horizontal lines at 14. 5\" and 17\"-
Route the rectangle just drawn to depth 0. 5\". -
On S2, draw a vertical line 0.
5 \"and 1\" from s3\"-
Draw horizontal lines from S6 at 10. 5\" and 13\". -
Route the rectangle to a depth of 1 \". 23B-
S1 up, draw a vertical line 0.
5 \"away from the edges of s2. -
Draw Another Line 1 from s2. -
Measure from S6 and draw horizontal lines at 14. 5\" and 17\"-
Route the rectangle just drawn to depth 0. 5\". -
On S2, draw a vertical line in the center. -
Draw a group of lines 0.
25 \"on both sides of the vertical line. -
Draw horizontal lines from S6 at 10. 5\" and 13\". -
Route the rectangle to a depth of 1 \". 23C-
S3 up, draw a vertical line 0.
5 \"away from the edges of the s4. -
Draw Another Line 1 from s2. -
Measure from S6 and draw horizontal lines at 14. 5\" and 17\"-
Route the rectangle just drawn to depth 0. 5\". -
On S4, draw a vertical line 0.
5 \"and 1\" from s3\"-
Draw horizontal lines from S6 at 10. 5\" and 13\". -
Route the rectangle to a depth of 1 \". 23D-
S1 up, draw a vertical line 0.
5 \"away from the edges of the s4. -
Draw Another Line 1 from s4. -
Measure from S6 and draw horizontal lines at 14. 5\" and 17\"-
Route the rectangle just drawn to depth 0. 5\". -
On S4, draw a vertical line in the center. -
Draw a group of lines 0.
25 \"on both sides of the vertical line. -
Draw horizontal lines from S6 at 10. 5\" and 13\". -
Route the rectangle to a depth of 1 \".
37A, 37C, 37E, 37G-
S4 up, draw a vertical line in the center. -
Measure from S6, draw horizontal line at 0. 5\", 3\", 25. 75\", 28. 25\". -
Draw vertical line 0.
25 \"away from the vertical line on both sides. -
Route the rectangle just drawn to depth 0. 5\".
37B, 37D, 37F, 37 H-
S2 up, draw a vertical line in the center. -
Measure from S6, draw horizontal line at 0. 5\", 3\", 25. 75\", 28. 25\". -
Draw vertical line 0.
25 \"away from the vertical line on both sides. -
Route the rectangle just drawn to depth 0. 5\".
The last point of routing.
Here we will depart from the passage of Bolt\'s trip.
You need Dremel and chisel. 21A-
You drilled 3 holes in Step 9.
The last two holes are 1. 25\" apart.
We will connect the two holes in one route. -
Draw a vertical center line between the two holes. -
Draw a parallel line next to the center line, 0.
25 \"far, on the side closest to the s4. -
Draw another parallel line * 0.
5 \"stay away from the line you drew at the last step, on the closest side to the s4. (
* If your hex bolt head is wider than 0.
5 \", adjust the line accordingly). -
Draw two horizontal lines on the outer edge of the hole and pass through s4 from S2. -
The part you mark with all these lines should be a bit like a phone.
This is the part you are going to route. -
Follow the same routing method as used in the previous steps. -
The hole is deliberately offset by 0.
25 \"give the hex bolts something to\" catch \"and give them a place to\" sit \"in.
Because of this, try to leave as much material as possible while allowing bolts to pass through the passage. -Lightly sand. 21B:-
S1 up, draw a vertical center line between the two holes. -
Draw a parallel line 0.
25 \"from the center line \".
Draw it on one side closest to s4. -
Draw another line 0.
5 \"stay away from the line you drew in the previous step, on the side closest to the s4. -
Draw two horizontal lines on the outer edge of the hole and pass through s4 from S2. -
Follow the same routing method as used in the previous steps. -Lightly sand. (
21A optional-B)
You can square the inner corners of the two holes with a chisel.
This is not necessary, but it will help the bolts stay in place if they move too much and slip.
Also, in order to make the mat, we need the jacket, the old t-
Shirt, foam, pillow/Juhuasuan
Fil, DingTalk gun, cloth and scissors. -Cut the old t-
Make a small square large enough to cover the breathing hole. -
Cut the foam topper into six 25 \"x 27\" sections. -
You should use all the materials completely.
If the material is a little less than required, it doesn\'t matter.
Just make each part a little smaller.
If there is additional material, hold the material by cutting the foam a little larger.
We want to use these things as much as we can without wasting anything. -
Next, cut the pillow and remove the filling.
This step can get a bit confusing, so I suggest you do it on plastic or paper, or at least on a floor that is not a carpet. -
Fill/gather-
Divided into six equal piles.
If you are using a different pillow/Poly
Fil, mixed filling to get a consistent feel. -
Next, cut the fabric into 1 piece. -Take the old t-
The shirt is square and nailed to the breathing hole.
This will help prevent dust and bugs and keep the filling. -
Pour the fabric over. -
Place the foam topper on top of the fabric, facing the fabric in a flat plane. -
Place the filler on top and layer when necessary. -
Place the sheath on top of the filler with t-
Shirt square facing below.
Make sure the size of the sheath matches the foam. -
Pull the fabric over.
Fold the edges of the fabric to strengthen the fabric and prevent tearing ,-
Nail the fabric to the sheath.
There are at least 3 Staples on each side. -
Pull the opposite side over, fold it, pull it tight and hold it in place. -
Pull the third side over and fix it in place. -
Make any final adjustments to the filling to balance the filling inside the mat. -
Pull and bind the fourth side of the fabric. -
Repeat the other 5 mats.
Okay, I lied.
There are more drilling holes here and maybe even routes.
This is simple, however.
In this step, we will connect the 37 \"mattress Hall of Fame piece together and install the hinge.
So, first of all, let\'s start connecting 37 \"parts together. -
Pair the pieces.
37AB, 37CD, 37EF, 37GH. -
37A needs to face S3.
37B needs S1 up-
37C needs to face S3.
37D needs S1 up-
37E needs to face S3.
37F needs S1 up-
Need to place S3 up 37G.
37 H needs S1 up-
Put the thigh joints together and mortices face in the same way.
Fix them well. -
Don\'t stick them together.
The lap joint is reinforced by bolts without glue.
This also retains the modularity of the futon. -
Set aside 37AB and 37GH.
/Note that this will be a good opportunity to ensure all bolt holes are aligned.
If anything comes off a little, do it with your drill until the bolts are installed and fixed. //-
Place 37CD and 37EF side by side and mortices face each other. -
37C and 37E should have S3 up.
If they don\'t do that, it\'s the Earth. -
Pass the hinge through the seam.
Should be down (ie.
Pin at the bottom). -
The space of the hinge is uniform, but it is necessary to avoid overlapping. -
Mark the profile of the hinge with a pencil. -
Set to 0 with Dremel.
5 \"depth, and wiring a small part of each piece to accommodate the hinge pin.
There shouldn\'t be much material (A 0. 5\" x 0.
Up to 5 \"rectangles). -
Use a chisel to clean up the corner of the area. -
Re-queue everything and place 37CD and 37EF side by side. -
Re-open the hinge. -
Mark the outline of each hinge with a pencil. -
Route the area you marked to the depth equal to the hinge.
This will allow the hinge to be mounted on the wood. -
Light sand, cut if necessary. -
Put the hinge back in place. -
Mark the position of the hole with a pencil. -
Drill some pilot holes for hinge screws. -
Attach the hinge with screws. -Test it out. -
If you find that 37CD and 37EF collide with each other, polish the edges to remove the excess material.
At this point, if you\'re building a bare bone version, you\'re actually done.
There will be some minor improvements, but the hard work is over.
If you are going to dye, paint and/or paint, assemble it anyway before you start painting to make sure everything is OK.
Clear any unimportant pencil marks.
Wipe everything clean with a damp cloth.
Let\'s assemble the rest of the frame.
Refer to the use picture.
Use a rubber mallet to \"convince\" some of the more stubborn joints if needed.
The glue is completely optional.
Skip this step completely if you don\'t use glue.
If you want to stick everything together, but it will also paint/dye and wait until you apply glue.
Use levels every step of the way.
If you need to adjust the height/length, it\'s time to adjust it.
If you don\'t have a grade, measure everything with your ruler.
As long as your cutting is fairly accurate, you should be quite level. Armrests/legs:-
Start with 23A and 23B. -
Connect 21A between 23A and 23B.
S1 should be left and S2 should be down. . -
Insert the stake into 14A and slide into S2 of 21A. -
Insert the stake into the top of 23A and 23B. -
Connect 28 on two pins . . -
Stick all the joints together-
Repeat 23C, 23D, 21B, 28B, and 14B, and the holes of 21B face left instead of right. Struts:-
Use the bolts, nuts and two washers for each hole to tie the 39A and 39B bolts together. -
39 C bolts together with 39D. -
Insert the stake into 10A-D. -Attach 10A-D into 39A-D. -
Insert 39AB into the point of 23B.
Insert the 39CD into the point of 23A. -GlueFrame:-
As shown in the figure, lay the mattress frame. -
Put everything together
Put the tension in the corresponding mortices.
Make sure that 21g and 21 J are outside the Kong dynasty. -
Stick the joint together-
Drill at least 4 pilot holes for each mat in 37A-H, and in 21C-J. -
Use the holes we used to do as guide drills to place, align, and drill/screw the pads into place from the bottom. -
Insert 2 nylon rollers into the holes of 37C and 37D. -
Insert the bolts into the holes of 21G and 21 J. -
Insert bolts and washers into 23B and 23D. -
Install the left side of the frame into the 23AB/21A/28 armrest/leg assembly. -
At this point it will help if you have friends. -
Lift the other side of the frame, align the remaining arm rest assembly and insert everything in the corresponding position. -Glue. Reinforcement:-
Reinforce the structure using wooden screws.
Focus on 21 pieces in the mattress frame.
If the joint is loose, reinforce it with screws, but hide the screws as much as possible. -
Use the scrap you keep to reinforce the main load-
Bearing joints such as 37AB, 37CD, 37EF, 37GH, 39AB and 39CD.
/If any joint has clearance or dislocation, please fix it as much as possible using the chisel and/or sandpaper/under 37GH, there should be a little space before you reach 39AB.
This is a problem because there is no support for the mattress.
In the position of folding down, the frame is a bit unstable.
Applying too much weight to the back end makes it tilt.
We will solve it here. 39AB:-
Take some waste wood. -
When the futon is in an upright position, place some scrap under the frame between 37GH and 39AB.
Line up with 21 pieces of mattress frame.
I\'m using leftovers that cut out 37A. H lap joints. -
Mark their position and screw them in. -
Repeat 39CD. 37AB:-
In the position of folding down, measure the height of the rear of the mattress frame from the ground to the bottom of the frame.
It should be at the 15-year-old baseball stadium \". -
Take some of the remaining 2 \"x 4\" and cut the two pieces of the length you measured. -
Connect these pieces to the 37AB to create the legs that fold when the futon folds.
Use the remaining two hinges to do this.
The reason why we didn\'t simply improve the 39AB and 39CD is because due to different hinges or slightly distorted Wood, the actual height will vary between different futons.
Save this step to the end to ensure that frames are supported correctly.
If you\'re doing the bare bone version, you\'re done! Congrats!
Take a nap on your new futon!
You should take apart the futon at this point.
You can paint or paint the whole thing with stains and varnish.
If you\'re dyeing, erase all the marks and give everything a good polish.
Clean the wood with a damp cloth and allow drying.
If you are drawing, I suggest you polish it well.
The paint will cover up any clutter.
Because I liked the look of Douglas Fir I used, I dirty my futon.
But if you\'re bad
Look at the wood and cover it with paint.
Be creative too
It is not necessarily boring, monotonous and homogeneous.
Draw a pattern directly on the wood and finish the dyeing.
Can also be designed directly with paint.
I didn\'t get mine dirty because I didn\'t want the paint scratched and damaged during the move.
I get dirty and finish it when I get to my new place.
Assemble the whole thing like I did before.
If any joints are no longer installed due to finish or paint, please polish them slightly.
If you need to remove the futon, most of the main joints are only connected together by bolts, gravity/friction or screws.
If something is glued together with wood glue, you can separate the pieces with a rubber mallet, hoping that nothing will be damaged.
In this project, 4x4 can be replaced with 2x4 (
In fact, as long as the structure is reasonable, any piece of these wood can be replaced with something else).
I have selected 4 x 4S aesthetically but you can use 2x4 s.
Be sure to adjust the measurement accordingly.
Using 2x 4S will also save you a bit of money.
If you don\'t like modularity, you can :-
Circle joints are omitted.
Instead of cutting four 39 \"blocks and eight 37\" blocks from the 2x 4S, cut them into two 75 \"blocks and four 72\" blocks. -
Use large plywood.
Instead of cutting the plywood into six parts, use them as the bulk of the two measurements 27 \"x 75.
For this you need two plywood sheets.
You can also use a combination of wood screws, nuts and bolts, or connect the parts in the butt joint with a reinforced metal bracket instead of using door panels and butt joints.
If you choose to do this, cut each piece a little short to make up for the shortcomings of the Mao festival.
For example, if you do not use a Mao on 21A, cut it to 20 \"because the total length of the tension is 1 \"(0. 5\" + 0. 5\").
The lap joint can also be replaced with any sturdy joint.
The swallow tail joint can work.
The same is true for box joints (finger joint).
Pfred2 has a good choice on the box and box joints: Use the lap joint to reduce the number of cuts, as the joints are reinforced with bolts anyway.
Instead of using a combination barrel nut and hex bolt, you have the option to use all barrel nuts or all hex nuts.
Just use the drilling method suitable for each.
In addition, it is entirely possible to use the hex nut in the same way as the barrel nut.
In other words, it is possible to \"bury\" a hex nut inside the wood and hide it, but this usually requires a slightly larger hole.
Drill precisely with a hex nut, measured from a plane to a parallel plane.
Do not measure from the vertex of the hexagon.
Using the width of the plane will allow the wood to \"grab\" the hex nut.
/Very important/If I had to do this project again, I would probably use 3 lag bolts \"1/4 in length\" instead of bolts and barrel cap nuts.
I didn\'t have it on hand so I used a bucket of nuts and I ate a lot.
However, the process is the same.
Drill holes, don\'t go through 37G all the time and screw in the bolts.
I think it will be much easier and I suggest you do so.
There are dozens of ways to fold the mattress as a futon.
The way I specify is a simplified variant of the dual nylon roller design used by many futons, where 2 sets of dual nylon rollers control the movement of the mattress frame.
While my futon uses 2 rollers, it actually uses only nylon rollers as the pivot for glory.
I replaced the other set of nylon rollers with hex bolts because the small passage of the hex bolt head is easier to wire, and because the hex tends not to roll, it provides stability.
This futon can easily accommodate double
Nylon roller design.
Just build the basic frame and use your own design for the nylon roller channel.
However, you have to measure the exact route that each roller needs to travel. (
View the first link on the final notes page --
The plan for that page is designed with a double nylon roller)
You can also use the lever and spring system (
Like the old futon I bought at the Walley supermarket)
However, this leaves the field of the beginner project and completely enters other fields.
I know very little about how to plan and build something like this.
I wanted to use the garage door spring as part of the process, but after that I got lost.
And finally, bi-
In my opinion, folding the futon is nothing more than a pool chair of glory than a real futon.
However, in a nutshell, a simple hinge design is not possible.
You can choose to use a reinforced bracket connected with bolts or screws instead of using a little bit and a pinch on the frame and pillar.
Remember to cut the block short to compensate for the increased length of the joint.
While it is possible to fix the mattress frame together using wooden screws, I would not recommend it because it seems to have a weak structure at the seams.
However, I am not an expert and may be completely wrong.
I like to do things that are overdone, so for me, I prefer to do the hemp point and the festival.
For the struts and mattress frames, you can also use some swallow tail joints or box joints, reinforced with vertical bolts on the countersunk head (or two).
There are many options for the mat.
In my futon, I used one (non-memory)
Top of foam mattress and filling of some old pillows as well as some Polyfil.
The final result is a 4 inch mattress, very comfortable.
I used 2 foam uppers and 4 pillows in my original design, but I found that a thick layer of foam didn\'t breathe very well, so I chose the pillow/PolyFil instead.
You can use any combination of pillows, fillers and foam toppers.
If you have extra money, a memory foam mattress topper ($60)would be great.
In this case I guess it would be better to put the memory foam on the fabric first and then some non-
Memory foam, then plywood.
But it\'s better to try and see what feels best for you.
There is also the actual upholstery foam, which would be great if you could reach it.
The price of this thing varies by quality and size, but usually more expensive than pillows and foam uppers.
This is used to decorate the sofa, boat, etc. . .
You can also recycle some of the old sofa cushions, but make sure they are clean.
Finally, there are beads.
This thing is basically a filling in the bean bag chair.
Although comfortable, this material is a huge insulator because it is mainly air.
I heard someone used this kind of thing internally. Wall insulation.
So keep in mind that it may absorb your body\'s heat well and may be uncomfortable in a warm climate.
I also think that noise can be a problem if you walk around a lot while sleeping.
I welcome you to use any combination of the above materials or anything else you can come up.
Use whatever you can afford, or the most comfortable thing for you.
If you have sewing skills, you can \"shape\" the fabric by sewing the corners in.
This is not a must, but it is helpful to aesthetics.
You will have a rectangle instead of the \"domestic\" of the mat \".
Also, if you are particularly adventurous with sewing machines, you can make the lid completely removable.
Add a zipper to the fabric and you have a removable cover.
Be sure to buy extra fabric as the cover must also be wrapped around the bottom.
You can add some extra hinges if you want.
I found that 4 hinges were enough (
Let\'s say the screws you use are good.
But in order to increase stability, more people will not be hurt.
Especially if you can get the hinge for $1.
Also, in some of my previous projects using hinges, I applied epoxy or strong glue between hinges and wood.
Since I wanted to break everything down, I didn\'t do it for this project, but this is certainly an option that you should consider.
Just know that if you continue to do so, the hinge will not fall off without fighting.
In my other project (
Folding table with suspension bridge)
, I applied epoxy to the wood and hinges, and strong glue to the screws for greater strength.
Don\'t plan to take it apart if you do.
It\'s almost permanent.
I used the shield door hinges in this project because they are big enough but also normal and cheap enough.
I bought it from a local dollar store.
However, home improvement stores should be sold for $2.
A bottle, so it\'s not expensive.
People who work hard. . .
I should have made that pet stone and called it a day.
But you know what?
I now bought myself a beautiful little futon that can be broken down and taken away when I move again.
Like Pet Rock, I can swing 2 x 4S to kill zombies in the upcoming apocalypse.
If you don\'t notice, this Instructure is a little longer than the average.
Obviously, this can be attributed to the high customisation of projects such as futon.
If you feel comfortable, I encourage you to make this project your own by customizing it in both big and small ways.
I don\'t have the necessary software to do it myself, but if anyone who decides to do it wants to make plans and cut-outs and post them, I\'m sure the community will be very grateful.
Although the design I showed here is definitely a university dormitory-
It is worth mentioning that I will be the first to say that there may be many improvements.
The folding mechanism can eliminate the depression with a little work and can strengthen the joints.
I encourage anyone with knowledge very much. how (
Or power tools)
To improve the design, give it a chance and post your results in the comments.
However, for a beginner project that can basically be done on a weekend with hand tools, I think I have completed the task I started to complete: it\'s solid, cheap, comfortable and easy to last for years
I also think this is a good start project for carpentry.
I know I learned a lot.
Thanks for the following people/website/Location :-
PBS, Norm Abrams and the New Yankee Workshop helped me spend countless hours learning cookie joints in my childhood. -
Because this is one of the few futon plans on the Internet. -
To get me on the right path on the mat. -
Ikea let me hang out around Fulton all day.
Comments are welcome, but keep in mind that I am not a carpenter and I do not advocate that there is expertise in anything I do in this project.
This is the biggest project I have ever done.
The first real woodworking project I did;
The first note I made. Please go easy. I\'ve proof-
I read at least 5 times, but please let me know ASAP if you find any errors so I can correct it.
Hope you enjoyed the project. Regards,-
