quilled paper dandelion poof

I created this paper dandelion project because I want to challenge myself to create a project that almost anyone can use with very little supplies and without any real background.
For some different reasons, I forced myself to come up with as many simple variables or optional steps as possible.
The first reason is that I want to make this crumpled paper dandelion Poof project a very cheap way to get quilling to try it out while still attractive enough, an experienced
Secondly, I want to make sure that the supplies I use can easily replace other items that a person may have in his or her own home.
One aspect of my particular focus is to make sure that the project is \"done\" without the need for a framework or any crazy extra cost.
Finally, I chose to make this square dandelion Poof project with a piece of paper, so for those who want to try this project, this is the easiest, however, this is a good example of how you can adjust your project.
You can choose your own color scheme for your project and be as bright or monotonous as possible.
Just a final note . . . . . . I decided to make a different version of the work with \"special paper\" to show what it looks like to use different paper and paint items of different colors.
I used quotation marks in professional papers because in the quilling world the word professional paper can be any of the following, metal edge paper, velvet, Pearl, shimmer, two shades
If you would like to learn more about the professional papers I have written on my website for the \"essay type tutorial\", you can find them here.
After I decided to try this feather-filled dandelion Poof project with black paper, I had to come back and add this small piece.
What I want to stress is that the white paper is much more forgiving for people who have just come into contact with quilling.
It covers up glue errors and other defects.
You may decide that you like quirky pieces and will end up using all misaligned or bent pieces.
I know, for me, I love change, and when I let things go naturally, I end up enjoying the projects I \'ve done very much.
Find the place you are satisfied with the project and scroll with it.
I hope you enjoy making this paper dandelion Poof project as much as I do and I would love to see your version of this project!
I \'ve never written a tutorial like this before, so I \'d love to know what works and makes sense, what matters more is what doesn\'t work and what needs more guidance.
~ Kristen what do you need: 4 \"x4\" stretch canvas (or equivalent)
You can brush Pilling paper at any craft/Super Store/online retailer (
You can cut paper or buy/use pre-by yourself-
Cut Paper)
Round slotted Pilling tool (
I have a tool I use, however, you can find circular objects in your house in place of the quilling form purchased)
Sharp scissors Glue is a way to hang or show your finished work and I will show your work in five different ways.
You can stick the display stand or display stand with tape or magnet and it\'s easy to start!
You will choose to draw your canvas.
You want to do this first, don\'t get in the way, because when your canvas is dry, you can stop to work in all the other parts of this project.
One thing I would like to point out in this step is that I am using stretch canvas and there is no nail on either side of the canvas.
Most of the larger stretch canvases have staples on the sides as they should be framed.
You can make this work, but we will make a cheaper version that does not require a frame.
The dandelion canvas I used, 23 plain quilling sheets, made 9 round poofs and 6 card stock sheets, equivalent to 18 Standard sheets. I want to take a minute to explain the different types of paper I use
First of all, I personally use pre-cut paper from littlecircles.
Net is the only brand I use because I get the most colors and supplies in one place.
You can get your BBQ paper online from different places, once I did find some BBQ paper in Hobby Hall shop.
You can also choose to manually cut the paper to the width you like.
The first thing I would like to point out is that I used 1/4 \"quilling paper.
For those who do not tick, 1/4 \"means the width of the paper.
The paper is sold for £ 1/8 in most places and labeled \"standard.
I started with 1/8 \"paper and I\'m glad I did because I thought I would never be able to use it if I started with wider paper.
That being said, I rarely do this if I don\'t use 1/8 \"paper anymore.
This is your personal choice of what size of paper you use, I can tell you many reasons I use 1/4 \", but all my reasons may be why someone will choose not to use what I like
Finally use the width of your choice.
The next difference I would like to point out is that I used two different types of paper in the project.
I will explain how to do this project using only rolling weight paper. Rolling weight? Good question!
When you buy quilling paper online or in a store, it is not usually even mentioned the weight of the paper.
There is a simple explanation for this . . . . . . Most shudders, especially those who are brand new to trembling, only need a standard rolling weight for their project.
So, what is the other type of paper?
Another good question!
Some quillers make the project and ask them to outline a shape and then put the small quilled blocks into it.
In the project, it is much easier to outline the shape or create thicker paper lines without having to stick the tape carefully to the tape to produce the same effect.
The best benefit of using the card stock weight paper is that it saves you time to make sure that each piece is sticky and that all edges match perfectly.
Another benefit of using card paper is that when styling strips for your work, you experience less paper bending.
So how do I know what type of paper to buy?
There are several answers to this question.
When the quilling bars are sold, they are all rolling weights unless otherwise stated.
Until recently, the only way to get the card paper was to pick out the desired weight and cut it yourself.
When the supply shop littlecircles.
Net recently changed the game by adding a new sheet with the name \"On Edge\", a line of paper dedicated to overview, instead of scrolling or queuing.
This is the meaning of the word \"rolling weight.
If I scroll or tick on a card or \"edge\" sheet, it looks bad.
However, if I am outlining something, I will save myself some time.
A piece of \"edge\" paper is equivalent to three pieces of rolled weight paper.
Continuing with this project, I will be sure to point out where I have used different types of paper and how to replace only the paper with the rolling weight.
We have drawn canvas that should be dry or dry.
You can decide how much paint you want to paint on the canvas.
I found a coat to work well for the project.
Hope you have chosen your color (s)and width(s)
The paper you are going to use, you are ready to start using.
I use \"cultural pop\" and \"edge\" in littlecircles \". net (
No, I didn\'t mention them, I just use this brand specifically).
I raise this question again because if you buy a pre-cut strip, you will find that different companies offer paper of different lengths.
It\'s important to note, because if I say I use half a piece of paper, it\'s a half-culture pop piece of paper with a length of 17.
Most quillers just cut their paper ends where they are bound, so for this reason I will use 16 \"as a measure of my note so that they are easier to be
The first part we have to do is the stem of the large poof and the stem of the smaller part.
This requires us to glue strips on top of each other to get the desired width.
You will need about 3 layered strips in full length in order to cut into the right size later.
If you are using card paper, you can stick two pieces of tape together at three different times.
If you use roll paper weight, you will stick six pieces of paper together in three different times.
Here\'s a short note . . . . . . You can get away with it by just doing two layers instead of three, but I always make a little more in case I find out later that I need it.
I \'ve been asking for a while, but I \'ve found that sometimes, no matter how hard I try, these straps don\'t end up sticking together as they should for beauty.
I always make sure I have some backup files in case my note becomes unstable one way or the other.
This is a special issue when you glue six tapes together
The trick here is to make sure you lay a very thin layer of glue along the length of the strap you glue, so that both sides can stick firmly to the adjacent piece, once dry, they will be firm.
You don\'t want to apply glue (
It\'s still a hard rule to remember for me at times, even after I \'ve been asking this)
Because it looks sloppy.
You don\'t want to be under the glue, because the tape will be separated and may shrink or buckle later when forming the glue.
Once you \'ve glued three separate-length layered blocks, or if you\'re very confident, you can leave them to dry on one side.
When you put them in a dry place, make sure they are flat so that they become firm and straight.
What we\'re going to look at next is the end of poofs.
This is where my round form starts to work, where you can cheat by using the round shape around your own house.
Working from Max to Min, this is how my shape is measured . . . . . . I use the eighth circle on the tool, which creates a circle about 3/4 in diameter.
I was able to install nine poofs on my canvas, so I need to make at least nine circles for this project.
I say \"at least\" because I always manage to have one or two shapes that don\'t look right and I like to shoot a few more so I have something to rely on.
What I want to point out now is that when it\'s time to cut them . . . . . . Sometimes a person is cut too far or bent to be used for a particular project.
So I like to eat a few more.
If you have a limited supply or complete confidence in your skills, you can use a total of 9.
When you find your round shape, you can start to glue the straps and there is a stable hand and some patience here that will pay off.
Take your strap, wrap it around the table, add some glue at the end of the strap, so that when you wrap the strap completely around the table, it will match and be fixed to glue.
Keep the strap for a few seconds to make sure the strap is safe.
Now the idea here is to make a circle that will keep the shape even if it is cut.
The way to do this is to lay as thin a glue layer as possible along the length of the strip.
This is why the shape is firm.
Excessive glue coating can cause the sides of the paper to become sloppy, while the sides of the paper are the first paper that people see, and sometimes the only one.
That\'s why it\'s important to make sure you\'re using enough but not too much, and that\'s why I always make sure I have a backup.
Once you \'ve glued the entire strap together, you\'ll want to gently pull it out of your table and put it aside to dry and firm.
If your accuracy is epic, repeat this step 8 times. If you are human and have a feeling, you may want to make some backups.
This part is boring, but it is worth it in the end.
The next step will allow us to create a smaller circle, and as we approach the completion of our filled dandelion Poof canvas, we will stick it to the center of the larger circle.
I use the third circle on my tool, which creates a circle about 3/8 in diameter.
Again, I was able to adapt to nine poofs, so I needed at least nine small circles.
Each of these small circles will use a piece of paper 8 \"long or 1/2 of a piece of paper.
The same steps above also apply here, and for those who need a reminder, I have pasted them below.
When you find your round shape, you can start to glue the straps and there is a stable hand and some patience here that will pay off.
Take your strap, wrap it around the table, add some glue at the end of the strap, so that when you wrap the strap completely around the table, it will match and be fixed to glue.
Keep the strap for a few seconds to make sure the strap is safe.
Now the idea here is to make a circle that will keep the shape even if it is cut.
The way to do this is to lay as thin a glue layer as possible along the length of the strip.
This is why the shape is firm.
Excessive glue coating can cause the sides of the paper to become sloppy, while the sides of the paper are the first paper that people see, and sometimes the only one.
That\'s why it\'s important to make sure you\'re using enough but not too much, and that\'s why I always make sure I have a backup.
Once you stick the whole half together, you\'ll want to gently pull it out of your body, dry it on one side and firm it up.
If your accuracy is epic, repeat this step 8 times. If you are human and have a feeling, you may want to make some backups.
This part is tedious, but at the end it\'s worth it when your circle is dry. You will have plenty of time to make small round ends that will stick to the cutting circle later.
If you are new to quilling, you may not know that some shapes have generic names.
In this case, the shape we are going to make is called a \"closed coil \".
This means that if you have crazy ninja Pilling skills, you will most likely use either a \"slotted Pilling tool\" or a \"needle \".
The slotted Pilling tool is a tool used by most Pilling players and can be easily found in any Pilling store at a very reasonable price.
There is also a way to make your own version of the slotting tool using sewing needles and Cork.
For this section, we assume that you have a slotted Pilling tool and that you are ready to proceed.
Each round end of the workpiece has four small closed coils.
Each bag can be made of a piece of paper.
First cut your paper into four equal lengths.
I used 4 \"bars for this part.
Slide one end of the paper into a slotted Pilling tool, roll the paper tightly until you reach the end, add a small amount of glue at the end and fix it into the roll you created.
Take the paper a bit to make sure it\'s safe.
When you slide down the coil from the slotted Pilling tool, be sure to pull it gently and not let the coil spring open.
If your coil expands, you have to roll the paper again if the paper is saleable.
Remember to be careful with your glue as this part only needs a small dab.
Don\'t stick the entire length of the strap together.
The closed coil is already strong, so you don\'t need a layer of glue to create the shape for you.
Math time, there are nine poofs on my canvas, so I need 36 tight coils.
This is part of the extra parts you don\'t need on hand.
As long as you are careful with the glue and the paper is aligned, you can skip making any extra tight coils. YAY!
We have to put almost all these things together. Exciting!
You also need to create a shape before we start the next part.
I don\'t know what this part of my dandelion is called, because it is an artistic interpretation of dandelion, not a real interpretation of the dandelion of life.
Therefore, it will be a semi-circular shape that holds a single stem on the large stem of the flower.
Although this work is very easy to make in theory, I think I have made about four before I finally make a work that I like and works in this particular work.
So this time we\'re going to roll half or eight \"paper into an open coil.
To create an open coil, you will insert the end of the Pilling paper in the slotted Pilling tool and roll the length of the paper.
Fix the paper in a tight coil, gently pull the paper from the slotting tool, and then let the paper spring open.
When you have your paper open, you want it to be a \"controlled\" opening because you are making a small semi-circle and you want the shape to be concentrated or dense.
Once you have a small open coil, you will put a small piece of glue at the end of the paper and fix it on the coil.
Next, you need to shape the opening coil into a semi-circular or semi-circular shape.
You do this by squeezing the opposite sides, keeping the top round while flattening the bottom.
It sounds tricky, but it\'s actually a lot easier if you give it a try.
If you\'re new to quilling, or if you\'re like me, you just need the right practice snippet and you want to choose from a few options, then there are a few practice snippets.
If the shape eventually becomes difficult, you can make a much easier Marquis shape.
You repeat the same steps of scrolling an 8-inch sheet, slide it from the tool and let it open slightly.
Pinch the shape on the opposite side to keep the middle round and stick the end to the shape.
If this is still tricky, you can actually pinch the shape in half and make sure to give extra extrusion to these points to lock the shape and glue the end.
There are many different fill shapes tutorials in which people explain in great detail how to make all the different commonly used fill shapes.
This is the link to my favorite ultimate shape tutorial.
Congrats that you have gone so far, it is time to take apart most of what you have just done!
Before you cut anything, please make sure there is a sharp pair of scissors in the next section.
This is not to be borne by sewing spires, dull scissors, or curved scissors.
Once you \'ve collected all the dry and sturdy circles, you can start trimming your pieces. TIP!
This is a good time to observe your circle and determine if you have any \"trouble points\" or parts that are not too queued.
It\'s great to find any prominent spots now so that when you start trimming, you can remove them from the last pieces.
I like to make sure I cut the circle part where the ends of the paper are stuck together.
Inside and outside.
First of all, you want to cut a circle.
In the end, you will turn this piece into a shape between a horseshoe and a semi-circle.
You should choose any shape you like.
I found that I prefer to be a little longer than a half circle.
Once you have done the first cut, you will most likely notice that it has squeezed the paper and that the cut is not as clean as you would like.
That\'s why the way to go is to trim the circle.
I do not recommend that you cut this circle where you finally expect it.
If this is what you want, you can.
I find that once you do the first cut, the subsequent cut will be cleaner and straighter.
You want the end to be as straight as possible so you can stick the closed coil to the end.
You need to cut all your circles into the desired shape.
Try cutting off any part that deviates from the center and the area at the end of your strap.
Now it\'s time to assemble and get your glue back!
It\'s time to gather all your pieces and start piecing together.
Each small circle will stick to the center of each large circle.
You can stick these together now.
The next step is to glue on small closed coils.
Each poof has four small closed coils.
I picked up the small closed coil and found the line where the paper was glued together, that is, I put a little sticky glue on the closed coil, then press it half round at one of the cutting ends.
Tip: I found that using tweezers allows me to control where to put the pieces because I have an oversized hand and the super delicate steps usually get more difficult for me.
It is important to make these parts completely dry, because there is very little glue that holds these parts together, so you don\'t want to move them before they dry, because the small closed coils move around, small vertical face.
Better tip: I made many versions of this project to make sure I can answer any questions or solve any problems that didn\'t show up when I first ran.
I found that before you stick the small half circle to the large half circle, it is very easy to stick the small tight coil to the cut circle.
For the next step, we will go back to the strip where we stick together at the beginning.
These should be full length notes that are strong, flat and dry.
If you roll wide paper, you stick six pieces of tape together.
If you are lucky enough to have the card stock paper, you will stick the two notes together.
If you still remember when you first started, I would suggest you make at least three of these full length tapes.
Even as an experienced quiller, I still have some parts that don\'t look right for one reason or another.
That\'s why I like extras.
So one stem or stem is needed for each half circle, no matter what you call it.
For each piece I glue, I make sure that the length of the stem is a little longer than I thought so I can trim it to the right size when assembling.
The longest stem is less than 2.
This is the center shot.
In theory, I only need one and a half straps, but I like to play safely.
In addition to the original 2 middle bars, I reduced the length of the paper to about 2 \".
5 \"this is almost too short for that dry word.
Now, take down every piece of clothing you just cut, apply glue to the cutting width of the strap, and then gently place it in the center of the maximum half circle.
I did my work nine times.
Believe me, let these be completely dry.
Everything is dry and you are ready to finish your dandelion!
In my original work, I put the circles together so that I can put as many on the canvas as I can.
By making two different levels of poofs I can pack them in.
At first I thought the stem would expand along the half circle I made.
Instead, I find that the work looks better, and all the stems meet at one point in the center, and then stick the curved half-circle to it instead of the opposite.
This is where you want to put all the pieces on the little canvas before the last cut.
Once you figure out where each piece should go, I suggest you do it from the biggest center to each side.
When you are ready to commit to placing your work, you want to take your personal photos, look at the sides of the paper and determine if there is a more appealing side. If there is (
And there are usually)
You want to apply the glue to the side you don\'t want to see.
Make sure you apply a thin layer of glue to the entire edge of the canvas.
Start work from there.
Each stem should touch its neighbor, where you will stick your half-circle.
Once you stick all the pieces together, then put the glue on the pieces, and then all you have left is the stem.
I like to do this work from a certain angle.
In my opinion, it allows me to adapt to most of the work, which makes it look more interesting.
I want to add a small curve to my main bar so I can walk from the party location of my other work to the corner of my stretch canvas.
But wait, don\'t we make all the straps strong, flat and straight? Good question!
Yes, we did, however, there is an easy way to add a small curve without the need to make any new parts.
Take a length of dry paper, pinch between the index finger and thumb, and pass the paper through with the other hand.
Repeat this step several times and gently add a curve.
The light and heat generated by paper friction will soften the once strong paper and allow you to add a little curve and features to the main bar.
If you decide to ask for a straight stem, just add a straight stem to it and wait for it to dry.
Whether you like your main bar, make sure it\'s longer than the canvas when you stick it down, so you can cut it into a certain size when it\'s dry.
Congratulate you first!
Whether you are a brand new quiller or an experienced quilling veteran, you have completed all the paper elements of this article.
So, let\'s get this done! ! !
Make sure it\'s dry first.
It\'s like letting it work all night!
One of my personal challenges with this work is to ensure that the work can be completed with a minimum budget and a minimum supply.
One of my ways to reduce the cost is to make this work without the framework.
If you choose to build this block, the following steps are not required.
Go ahead and leave the frame.
For those who want to present the work without the cost of the frame, I have a few options for you to choose from.
The first and easiest option is to show your work on a small wooden stand or a small display stand.
Or it can be purchased very cheaply, and in some cases you can find a small drawing cloth and a small wooden easel in a craft shop or online.
The second one is a super simple hanging method that uber likes when I grow up. there is no nail jagged hanger.
It\'s actually as easy as it sounds.
All you have to do is turn your quilled canvas around and I will not put quilled on a hard surface to insert the hanger.
Instead, most small canvases are made of super soft wood, and these hangers without nails can be easily inserted under enough pressure.
If you have to knock the hanger with something, I will hold the piece in one hand to protect the curved surface.
Another option for no nail-jagged hanger is to put it in before you start sticking your pieces to the canvas.
I tend not to do this because I \'ve scraped a very nice table before and moved my canvas around and it looks like someone took a fork to my table. AHH!
I\'m sorry, I didn\'t show it to you. I think I messed up that . . . . . . Sorry.
The third option is always an amazing command hang bar.
If you are not familiar with them, you should really look into them.
Hanging out a lot of different things is a way of not messing around.
It doesn\'t matter in this case, as your canvas will be light, but you\'ll want to make sure your item weight gets the right straps.
If you have your strap, all you have to do is apply one or more on the back of the canvas and apply it to the wall.
When you are ready to pull it down quickly from the label and your walls are not damaged, you can move your artwork as you wish.
Please note that each bar can be used once, so you need more if you are moving your art.
My fourth choice was really cool.
I bought the tape and it sounds easy.
All I did was pull the tape to each wooden edge on the back of the canvas and boom . . . . . . One piece is done and my fridge has a new magnet.
The last option I\'m going to talk about is an idea I came up with when making holiday decorations.
This is also a great option if you have endless random items around you.
You need a drill bit, a thin drill bit, a jewelry or craft line, a pair of jewelry tongs or needle nose pliers, a complete folding dandelion, the idea behind this method is to create a nail that you can hang on, it can even make the wire large enough to cycle around the door handle.
Pick up your handy dandy bit and throw a thin bit.
You will want the opening to be large enough to pass the wire.
The specification of your wire will determine the size of the drill bit.
I do want to remind people in advance . . . . . . I have done this on at least a dozen canvas without problems.
However, these little canvases are really small.
We are working on a budget, so to be honest, they are not made of the most amazing wood.
So you\'ll want to drill slowly and make sure you drill the hole where you want it.
I haven\'t had any problems but to be honest I was surprised that one or two of them didn\'t crack the wood.
So make the hole as small as possible and put some width between the holes.
My drilling is 1.
5 \"separate from each other.
Once your hole is drilled out, you will want to decide where you will hang the canvas from, so that you can determine the number of wires you will hang the canvas the way you want it.
I mentioned above, for example, to hang this piece on the door handle, which requires more wires
Hang the wire on a nail or hook.
Select your length and add an extra 1 \"-1.
5 \"on each side so you can curl the wire or make a knot so the wire doesn\'t come out of the drill.
To do this, you need to insert the wire into each hole, remove the end of the wire with a jewelry clamp or a needle nose clamp, then turn the wire for no better explanation
Once the wire is hung on the final destination, this will stop it from coming out. Congrats!
You did the whole thing.
Thank you so much for taking the time to see my first note!
I hope you can share any feedback and it would be great to see photos of any project.
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