King Size Wood Flooring Platform Bed and Headboard With Built-in Lights and Outlets and Hidden Drawers for $400!

Wow, this is a long title!
I designed and built this headboard for my wife a few years ago (
Fiance at the time)
When we live apart
It plugs into any 1 standard wall socket and includes a light switch for 2 headlamps (3-
So that the switch can be controlled on both sides)
And 4 regular outlets (
2 on each side of the base)
To accommodate anything that needs to be inserted on our side.
My purpose of building it is that no matter where we move, no matter which room it enters, we will have sockets and lights --
Our clock and phone charger are 10 feet away from 1 plug and no more fighting!
It turned out to be to put a big bed on those cheap metal frames with a box of springs inside. Fast forward -
Two big dogs, after one child (
And one on the road)
We decided it was time to buy a king bed.
I can\'t really reuse this headboard anymore, so I decided to build another one from scratch.
This time, we decided to make a solid wood headboard (
No fill or color like the old one)
, A platform bed with drawers will also be included.
I did my best in the process of keeping the receipt.
I\'m sure I forgot something here or there, but in most cases it\'s listed.
Some of the things I bought on eBay, the others are Home Depot.
I added about $20 in screws/nails as I purchased them in large quantities and already had their supply on hand.
This is about the order in which I use the material throughout the project, so if you want to buy it in stages, start at the top and go down.
In the end, the \"courage\" of the project totaled $350 and the wood floor covered was $50.
I will start by outlining how I do platform beds and drawers.
I played 2-
There are 3 drawers on both sides and even a drawer on the foot of the bed.
Ultimately, due to the cost and simplicity of carpentry, I decided to have a large drawer on both sides.
In this way, I can maximize the amount of storage under the bed.
In order to place the bedside table, I put the drawer as close as possible to my feet.
As for the size, I only pay special attention to the height, width and length of the bed.
We want a platform bed with a king mattress (76\"x80\")and 16\" tall.
We chose 16 \"as this is the height of the old bed until the top of the box spring.
This new bed is not designed to have a spring, but is supported by a wooden strip as a mattress.
Again, I\'m not picky about any other measurements except the overall size --
I first build the main members to the exact size and then \"wing\" the rest from there. You will see.
I cut 8 16 \"2x4 pieces first.
Each pair is screwed and glued together to form four square legs.
Next, I prepared the frame outside and cut the runner inside.
Making these is your choice, but cut them, so the size outside is 76x80 for a king bed.
There is really no need to Mitter corners as they will all be covered with wooden floors.
Just dock.
I used 6 inch bolts with washers and lock washers to attach the four outer legs to the outer sheet of the frame.
To gain more power, each of these joints is glued together.
Note: I offset the head on the frame to the inside (see photos).
This is done to allow the final product to slide to the wall of the room to the right later.
Remember, you need some crazy long bits (
Or you can use a shovel)
There are some things that can sink the bolt head down.
Use 4 bolts per leg: two directions offset each other.
Once the external member is connected to the leg and you are happy with the square, you can connect the internal runner.
I chose to carry the goods with a deck hanger.
The deck hanger is excellent in delivering weight to the beam.
Divide the bed width into thirty degrees and install the deck runner in the center.
Since I was paranoid about drooping despite having 4 runners to carry the cargo, I added some hidden legs for dual use.
They are for dual use, as they not only help to carry some load, but can also serve as a stand for the drawer slide.
How far should you install them from the bed?
This is your choice!
Since this is a nice round number, I think I went with the 24 th.
Now you have a monster with six legs.
Time to add the drawer slide bracket.
The mountain at the foot of the bed is super easy-
Just measure the distance.
Make sure you cut two of the same sizes as you will use the same parts on your bedside.
This is a small math place for head side mounting.
Figure out how low you want the bottom of the drawer to be, which is the height of the mounting bracket.
I chose to have a 3 inch gap under my bed so I could slide my feet under the bed and not squeeze my toes, so 16 \"minus 3\" would give me 13 \".
How long will these 2 special hanging pieces be cut on both sides (see pictures).
I added the last piece between the two brackets to keep them square to each other and reduce the vibration of the drawers when they come in and out.
Now that you have built the bed rack, you can start with the drawer.
There are many ways to make drawers, but I like simplicity.
The material also determines my construction technology.
It hurts me to use cardboard, but I went during customs clearance at Home Depot.
My mindset is that I can replace with a new drawer if the drawer is broken.
Also, I\'m drawing them so I don\'t need to get good wood.
Once you have built your frame with the drawer holder you want, attach the drawer slide to the holder.
Measure the interior of the drawer slide to get the width (
As accurate as possible).
Choose the depth that suits your preferences and then go into town in the drawer.
I won\'t tell you how to build them, but I will share my options.
I used the butt joint for all corners and wired the lower side of the edge in order to sink the base back to the side.
To enhance the strength, each edge is glued together.
The base is made of a thickness of 1/4.
Finally, and most importantly, the face of the drawer is about an inch higher than the back.
This creates a lip on the bottom edge so you can grab it instead of installing a traditional drawer.
If you go this way, make sure you incorporate this lip measurement into the rest of the drawer.
If you do not, you may get a drawer that is not seamless with the rest of the bed side.
If you notice in the photo, I already have the drawer slide that is fully extended, but my drawer is not fully extended.
This is because the biggest reasonable price slide I can find is 24 \".
This leaves a lot of wasted volume in the middle of the bed.
I chose to make a drawer in a 32 \"deep place to compensate.
The slides do extend well, but because the drawer is deeper than 24 \", the 8\" left and right of the drawer is left under the bed.
This is perfectly reasonable for me.
My two cents on the drawer slide: except for the drawer slide, I slipped almost every part of the bed.
The price of 24 versions is around $20.
They are stretching fully and keeping 100 pounds.
I will definitely get good.
In addition, the drawer slide is very temperamental.
Be patient with them.
You will master it in a while.
After the drawer is completed, it is time to install the receiver end of the drawer sliding to the drawer itself.
Follow the instructions attached to the slide-
It should be self-explanatory.
This step is simple.
Bring your 1x3 s and screw them in!
I use 1x3 as the spacer between the plates.
I also glued them down for extra strength.
You can also screw them to the middle board if you want.
I did this step before covering the steps to help keep the square of the entire structure.
Also, I installed 1x3 without cutting, then came back with a round saw and cut it off from the edge of each round saw.
The beauty of this part is that you can cover your frame with whatever you want.
Because the cost (
The challenge of seeing if it works)
I chose to use a wood laminate floor.
Another reason is because I can choose the wood grain I like, and it is in
Finished and durable.
After a stroll, my wife and I found a wooden floor at the timber clearing company, which we all liked.
You can definitely use solid wood.
Remember that it will start to get heavy.
The idea here is to stick the wood floor to 1/4 plywood with contact cement and then cut any size you need to cover the frame with your homemade good sheet.
I started from the bed and walked all the way forward.
From top to bottom is 3 segments. 1: the top 2x4.
2: The height of the drawer.
3: the bottom of the leg.
You can see these three stages in the picture.
How did I attach it? You ready?
Good wood glue. No hardware!
I chose not to use the hardware because the floor you made was not thick enough to accept screws or nails.
Make sure you have a lot of clips ready!
I did it in stages.
It took me a week to do one-2 pieces a day.
I would clip them with glue and let it dry overnight. Be patient!
About the corners: to give the illusion of continuous strips, I chose to Mitter them.
Unfortunately, I\'m pretty bad at making the Mitter edge.
My solution is to polish the corners after bonding to form the edge of the slope.
I happen to have some wood stains that look good, so I use it to mix it.
It actually came out very well.
About the laminate floor: You have to be patient with this stuff --
It is made of granular board/medium fiber board type material and is very durable in vertical direction --
But not very durable in landscape
Therefore, it is glued to the backing layer.
This makes it strong enough to fight against what I\'m doing.
Statement: I am not an electrician.
However, I have a degree in mechanical engineering, my father-in-
The law is a contractor (
Who consulted).
I don\'t take any responsibility if you can\'t connect the socket properly.
For this step, start with your electric box.
I chose to put my mountain on the hind legs of the bed, but you can use this drop further south to get the same effect.
Pretend you installed a new box on the dry wall and do the same here!
Track your square, cut, and hammer the nail into the nail.
That\'s simple.
For plugs entering the wall you can cut off the extension cord but they sell 5-
15 feet segment wire with plug at one end and peel off at the other end ready.
Make sure you have a decent standard, though.
I chose 14/2.
This is the case on the walls of most houses.
/2 only refers to 2 shielding lines plus grounding.
/2 is all the outlets you need.
I suggest Google search how to connect sockets so you don\'t screw things up!
I chose to bring the wall power to a box and then have one wire go through the bed to the other box.
You will notice the wire pegs that secure it under the bed.
Finally, use the socket tester.
They are a few bucks and they will let you know if you wire the plug correctly! See below. Whew!
OK, now that the bed is done, we are halfway through!
The headboard is actually much easier than the bed.
Build a frame for it, connect the plywood, glue the surface, cut some holes and connect it with a wire!
It took me only a few days to finish.
These pictures show the frame. Simple -
Make it as high as you want.
Pay attention to the orientation of the middle part-
It\'s horizontal, not vertical.
This is because I used a fluorescent light fixture as my light source.
Vertical support does not allow me to install it (
Not to mention the hole in the window, there will be a beautiful 2x4 through it).
Also worth noting is that I gap at the bottom of the leg to fit perfectly on the bed leg. See pictures.
Cover the frame with plywood and then cover the frame with wooden floor.
I used a router with fine-tuning bits and 45 degree bevel bits to clean up all edges.
At this point, I also run the wiring of all switches and lights.
I also cut the window and let the light pass through.
I\'m dealing with all three things at the same time as I have a lot of rest time between glue --ups.
I left a lot of pieces from the bed, which is why there are a lot of pieces with strange shapes.
When wiring the switch, make sure to get \"3-way\" switches -
Also use the \"14/3\" wire.
This will allow any switch to control the light no matter where the other switch is!
You can Google how to connect these correctly.
I provided the chart I used for this.
The headboard should be placed on the leg of the bed.
To prevent it from falling forward, I used some scrap wood left over as I made the drawer, screwed them to the middle Crosswood and screwed them to the leg.
I really don\'t care if it goes backwards because the wall will support it in that direction! In the end -
The headboard is heavy enough and there is no threat of falling in either direction, but I just want to be sure. That\'s it!
No holes in the wall!
As for the glass, we bought a custom cut in the glass shop and painted the town with frosted glass!
We use some spare contact paper as a pattern, spray it on it, and then remove the paper.
It\'s easy!
I attached it to the back of the window and then fixed it in place with some mirror stand on the back.
It took a few weeks, but I\'m really proud of it!