I have been building projects from instructures for years, but have never really had time to post any of my own projects.
However, I found myself having a little extra time lately and decided it was time to start giving back to the community.
So, for my first attempt at structure, please allow me to show (
Drum, please):Bunk Beds! (
Very happy! )(from wikipedia)
: A bed with one bed frame stacked on the other bed frame.
Like a minivan, the more kids you have, the better you look at the bunk beds.
Unless you are lucky enough to live in a beautiful big house and everyone has their own room, the ability to stack children at night will provide more floor space for tables, sofas, etc, and toys to be delivered.
Unfortunately, bunk beds can be expensive
This is out of reach for most people.
To make matters worse, most of the production bunk bed frames I see on the market are very fragile --
I just can\'t justify spending $1,000 for my kids to spend 8 hours a night, 5 feet of the time in the air, worrying that they will crash every time they turn over!
The good news is that you can easily build a bunk bed that is sturdy and durable, looks great, breaks down easily when moving, and is completely modular
$125-
Timber and supplies are valued at $200.
What does modular mean?
Once built, this bunk bed can be assembled into a traditional stackover-the-
Other bunk bed frames; as an L-
Formed bunk bed, the bed at the bottom is only half covered by the upper bunk;
Even two separate beds sitting on the floor
Once the parts are built, all of them are changed with minimal effort.
The only power tool you absolutely need is the drill bit, but having some kind of saw and manual sander will make your life easier.
I will look at the materials again next.
I have 4 kids and made 2 bunk beds.
There are some differences in style between the two (
See above)
But one big lesson learned from one to the other is to put the security bar on the upper bunk.
All the instructions in the guide are for version 2 (
With safety bar)
The following materials are essential for the basic materials of traditional stacking (one-over-the-other)Bunk Bed.
Material 2 \"x 6\" plate-
13 boards at 96 (8\')long.
These are used for most of the framework.
I used 2 \"x6\" boards.
It will make the finished product rock solid, and I like the look of the big chunky they offer --
But you can easily use 2 \"x4\" boards if you want;
You can save about $1. $2 per board;
Or $30 in total. 1 piece of \"x 6\" board-
96 \"long 8 boards.
These are used for the columns on the head/footboard.
There are also 2 mattress support boards. $20. 2 pieces of \"x2\" board-
8 \'long 4 boards.
These are used to support the mattress.
$64 \'X 8\' 1/4 plywood-
If it is a new mattress, it is very important to use it under the mattress.
Otherwise, 4 or 5 extra 1 \"x4\" boards will work fine.
I will explain this difference in the next steps.
If you buy plywood for this project and spend the extra money on a decent piece of paper, don\'t buy OBS or cheaper planks --
They are usually sealed in a chemical bath and you really don\'t want your child to sleep nearby.
If you have any questions, do a sniffing test for the sheets.
It may be good if it smells like Wood (
You know what I mean when you sniff. )($35 -$45)
5 \"or 6\" 5/16 lag bolts and washers-20. About $12. 1. 5\" Screws -
Drywall or any other type of screw you may place.
You need dozens. $3.
2 \"finishing nails (or Brad Nails)-
Between 150 and 250, you need a lot of such things.
Used to hold the head and foot board together. $7. Wood Glue -For gluing. . . wood. $4.
5/16 metal pin Rod-
Used as a little extra support between the two beds. $3. Sandpaper -
It depends on the completion you are looking.
I took the time to make a smooth satin.
This requires the following sandpaper (
I use palm sand)
: 1 pack of 60 capsules;
1 pack of 6 capsules and 120 capsules;
1 pack of 6 220 sand-(
About $15 in total)Stain -1 946 ml tin.
Any color that suits you.
I chose Golden Oak\"
You won\'t use the whole tin, but it\'s better than buying a smaller tin and running out. (about $10)Varathane -1 946 ml tin.
Done in a few-
I chose satin with low gloss.
Do not skip this step;
Not only will it protect your hard work, it will also be sealed in the smell of stains :)(about $12)
Tools the more tools you have, the easier it will be to use wood.
But they are almost all optional except for a decent exercise. Tape measure-
You can guess your size, but you will end up with a bed for Tim Burton. Saw -
Requirements: Steel saw for metal pins (about $6 -
If you don\'t have $12)Optional.
If you do not have one of the following: table saw, skill saw, radial arm saw, clamp saw, hand saw, Beaver;
Please advance the good people in the timber yard.
Cut the wood for you.
They usually do it for free. Router -Optional.
I use routers along the long edges of all my boards to bypass the edges.
If you want to skip this step, you can achieve similar results with a little judicial sandpaper. Palm Sander -
Optional but recommended.
A lot of wood is used in the bunk beds, depending on the type of finish you want, there may be a lot of sanding.
I you have a forearm like a Popeye and can be replaced with a hand sander. Drill -Needed to pre-
Drill through wood components.
I think if you are thinking about building a wooden bunk bed, you may already have one of them. Not optional. Safety glasses-
Highly recommended if you don\'t like eyes full of wood debris and dust ($7 -
$30 depending on how cool you want to look when working)Dust Mask -
Again, highly recommended when sanding.
Most wood dust is not good for your sinus or lungs (
$6 for 3 packs)Nail (Brad)Gun -
I used an air powered Brad DingTalk with two \"brads\" but you can easily use the hammer and manicure.
Paint Brush & sponge-
It is easier to apply stains with a sponge brush ($. 99 or $1.
99 A Pack 3).
Varathane\'s best paint brush ($1. 99)
The carpenter\'s square or the fast square and some quick clips will also come in handy.
Assuming you don\'t need to buy any tools, the total cost of the project: $120-
If you want to build a \"l\" shaped bunk you will need to build an extra head and foot board which will add about $25 more
The cost of the main project is $35.
Using a router to shape the board is an optional step and you may know how to use it if you have it, so I won\'t go into the details.
I have a few photos here for you to see the process
If you don\'t have a router but still want rounded corners, just soften it a little with some sandpaper.
Before cutting many boards into the right size, my router even roughly polished them.
That way, when I work, I can clip the board on the saw.
The proper technology of the router includes a uniform, flat grip pressure and passes through the circuit board in the opposite direction of the rotation of the drill bit.
If you move with bits, it\'s harder to control --
The RPM of the router is very high and bit will mess up the router if you are not careful.
It\'s time to cut all your wood.
2x6 board divide your 2x6 board into 2 piles: 4 board will become mattress holder (
Long horizontal side rail of bed)
Need to be cut to 75 \"(inches)
The remaining 2x6 plates need to be cut to a length of 42 1/4.
You should get 2 from each 8\' board.
Using scrap, cut 2 pieces of 2x6 into the same width as 1x6, about 5 1/2 \".
2x2 planks keep all 4 2x2 planks of the same length: 72 \"or 73 \".
They will be attached to the inside of your long 2x6 side track board and your mattress holder will be placed on top.
The exact length doesn\'t matter, they just need to be a little shorter than your 75 \"2x6 board.
1x6 board you need: 12 board @ 32 1/4 \"4 board @ 41 1/4\" you also need to reduce the extra board of mattress bracket, they will run between 2x6 bed side rails and rest on 2x2.
The boards should be 38 \"long.
Depending on the type of mattress you have, you may or may not need a piece of plywoodPlywoodIf, if you need a piece of plywood to be placed under the mattress and cut into the size of the mattress, about 38 \"x 73\" should work within the framework we are building.
* For additional instructions on choosing the right plywood, please see step 1 \"list of materials \".
How do you know if you need plywood?
When you start reading this manual, you don\'t know that you will understand the exciting world of mattresses, do you?
Unless there is someone in your mattress, the mattress will cost very little money (
The mark on the mattress is crazy)
You don\'t need to be an expert to get a good night\'s sleep, but a little bit of knowledge can add years to the life of the expensive mattress you buy.
So, what you should know is: there are basically three types of mattresses: spring mattresses-
The traditional mattress, and the type you might think of if you think of the mattress, including the binding spring base wrapped with padding and fabric.
Think about it: a lot of coils are tied together.
It\'s getting harder and harder to even find this type of mattress (
At least in Canada)
Pocket coil mattress
Many years ago, the mattress company began to innovate, creating a \"pocket coil \";
A base of an independent coil, set inside the shell of a dense foam, wrapped with padding and fabric.
Think about it: there are a lot of coils in each individual package.
These have become standards recently.
Foam mattress
The latest technology in mattress technology is compressed, dense foam --
No coils at all.
Most mattress companies seem to be turning to the mattress. ok. . . so?
In the past days, your parents will throw a few boards under your mattress
It works because the entire mattress frame is tied together and the body weight is evenly distributed over the frame.
The newer mattress is designed to not spread your weight or even have a \"frame\" anymore \"(
Think about the old ads that throw bowling balls on the mattress and don\'t beat bowling bottles. )
The point here is that by throwing a few planks under your newer mattress, you will only support a small portion of the actual mattress, over time (a year or two)
You will see significant dents in unsupported areas.
Both pocket coils and dense foam mattresses need to be supported evenly on a flat surface.
You can do this with the box spring, but I find this too much for a children\'s bed --
The new mattresses themselves are very thick, and they cost hundreds of dollars in addition to the cost of the mattresses, which are not actually needed.
The plywood below offers the same support for less than $40.
Once everything has been cut down, grab around 80 or 120 of the sandpaper and quickly clean the edges to remove any debris
Like my assistant did in the last photo above.
Before cutting some of the boards to the right size, I did a rough sanding of them.
But as soon as your board is cut, most of the sanding is done. Sanding -
Your guide, real Grit40 sand-
Extra roughness: remove surface defects and Peel 60 and 80 sand
Coarse: medium level of removal and defects
Medium: light removal of surface and smooth Grit-
Fine: used to finish grinding 220 sand
Very good: I want a smooth surface for this project, so I used the following process on all the boards: start with 40 sand and give the whole board over.
Grinding edges and lumberyard stamps (
As I can see in the \"router operation\" above).
Give any knot a little extra love with this courage to remove any cracks and defects.
* If the logging field stamp is too deep to be polished without leaving a huge turf, you can try to bleach or clean it up.
Please check this guide for more information.
For this project, I think it is OK to be a bit uneven and it gives some properties to the wood.
Once you step out of the worst rough area, move to 80 sand and give the whole board one more time.
Take a little extra time to grind again.
Move to 120 sand and give the whole board one more time.
Take a little extra time to smooth the knot that is now slightly indented (
This should be an almost invisible indent).
Move to 220 sand and finish the plate.
220 will give your board a very smooth final finish.
It\'s time consuming, and it could take 4-
Polish all the boards in six hours.
But the finished product is great.
If all you want is something \"good\", you can do it: 60, 120, 220.
You may use more 220 sandpaper because you have to work harder to get the job done, but it takes less time and you will still be right for you while shaving
Or will it be polished? )
Work for a few hours.
This step takes the most effort, so once you \'ve done all the sanding, go and open the beer while everyone admires your wood.
It is fashionable to paint wooden furniture in some circles --
Don\'t do that.
The wood has an amazing character, and its knots, threads, and long lines are all great.
None of the two are exactly the same.
So celebrate the magic of nature with a beautiful natural stain that will complement the wood you are working on.
As I mentioned in the material list, I went to a stain in the \"Golden Oak\" color.
Don\'t shake your stain tankbubbles suck.
Instead, take a mixing stick and gently stir until the stain reaches a consistent color (
Can gently help scrape the bottom).
Apply with a foam brush.
I believe a good way to dye is to apply several thin layers.
I am too impatient with this and tend to put on a thick layer and soak it in as much as possible.
For these plates, this means dyeing the top (
The top and bottom are arbitrary, and when you start, no matter which side faces the ceiling is the top)
The boards on both sides of the first lap let them sit for hours.
Stains are applied thick on the top and thin on the sides to prevent dripping water.
Apply with wood grain and do not leave any pool.
In the second round, I flipped them over, stained the bottom and applied a second thin coat on the side.
This method will help to hide any lines that stop/start the stain coating.
If some stains drop on a circle or two and leave traces, just pick up your foam brush, apply a small amount of stains on it and rub the marked area.
This should disperse the stains and remove the left marks from the dribs and drabs.
Also, don\'t forget the cutting end of the board.
They tend to absorb a lot of stains, so I put a coat on both rounds and basically absorb as many stains as possible in a few minutes.
Once the boards are stained, apply a few varatane coats to seal them.
This will seal in the smell of stains and keep the wood fresh for years.
Use water-based Varathane.
It works fast, it\'s easy to clean up, and it\'s easy to use.
Apply with a high quality brush like a stain
Can\'t shake the jar.
The bubbles in Varathane are really bad and affect the app in an important way.
Don\'t shake the jar unless you want to polish some more.
Gently stir the can with a mixing stick and then apply it thin.
When you finish the second board, the first board will dry.
So arrange your board (
Like the second picture above)
And the way you work.
Once you get to the last board, start flipping them and apply the coating to the bottom.
Once you reach the finish point again, start flipping them and start applying the second coat. Easy.
On a beautiful dresser or table, in order to get a really smooth surface, you will want to polish it with high sand sandpaper between Varathane\'s coats.
But the end of the bed will get the kids to the upper bunk like a ladder, so a little courage is actually a good thing to prevent the ladder from being too slippery.
Two coats for Varathane are good.
Three better. Also -
There is a good bright light source (like the sun. . . or a light)
It\'s really useful to point your board from an angle and see what you have varochd and what you missed.
It is difficult to see Varathane when applying, but when wet it is very reflective.
It\'s time to put your board together.
Throw some scrap wood on the ground so you don\'t scratch your newly stained board.
The head and foot board of the \"bottom\" bed is slightly different from the head/foot board of the upper bunk, because the upper bunk has a track of \"Don\'t fall off the bed.
BunkSee Pictures 1 to 3 at the bottom of this section.
Grab 4 1x6 columns and 4 2x6 crossespieces (42 1/2\" pieces).
Drop down 2 of your 1x4 columns as a guide, then place your 4x6 board on top to form a large wide ladder. See picture1.
Align the plates with the edges of 1x4 below and place them evenly.
Make sure that the 2x6 is flush with the top and bottom of the 1x6.
Once everything is lined up, take out your wood glue and apply it to the right of four 2x6 --
Then put 1x4 on the glue-
Put some pressure.
Once you rearrange everything, use a hammer to get 3 or 4 nails through the bonded area.
I have an air compressor and Brad DingTalk which makes the work both fast and easy, but the hammer and DingTalk are good enough to work.
Use 2 \"nails/brads.
To make sure that there is no change, I would suggest passing a nail through the top plate, then aligning the bottom plate and passing a nail through the bottom plate.
Then make any adjustments at the last minute and keep the frame square before tapping the nails.
Repeat along the left side of 2x6.
Flip the attached frame so that the lower side is now facing the ceiling.
Repeat the process again on the left and right.
You will have a full head/footboard ladder upon completion. Woot -
You are the first quarter of this step!
Now grab more than 4 1x6 columns and more than 4 2x6 beams
Repeat all the steps above to complete the end of the lower bunk.
The top bunk process is the same as the bottom bunk, but there will be a longer 1x6 and an additional 2x6 on one side of the frame.
Make your board as before.
See Figure 4 above for reference and see the differences in the layout of the upper bunk.
The process is the same as the lower bunk.
Arrange the boards, arrange them, glue, nails.
View picture 5 View completed frames. Cross-
Piece together your long 2x6 board and place a 2x2 on each board.
Apply a little glue and clip it together. After pre-Drilling (
Otherwise, you can separate the thinner 2x2)
Place the screws in 2x2 every 8 \"or so.
Cross-repetition of all 4 beds-pieces.
Head and foot boundaries you need to drill 4 holes in each piece.
For the two lower bunk ends, you will drill holes from the board 2nd from the bottom.
For 2 upper bunk pieces, you will drill holes from the board 2nd from the upper bunk (
Does not include additional \"do not fall off the bed\" track boards).
This will provide enough clearance space in the lower bunk.
The first step is to mark where you will drill.
You should drill your hole (
2 holes on the same side)about 4.
5 \"separate, measured from the center of the hole.
You need to leave at least 38 1/2 between the two intersections.
This means that your hole may be closer to the outside of 2x6.
In order to get a clean hole with no split, drill most of it through the plate from the top, then flip the plate and finish the hole from the other side (
See pictures 3 and 4. )
Before you start drilling, you can do this more easily by marking the drilling distance on the drill bit (
See Figure 2 above)Tips:-
Try to drill straight.
Hosting a square can help-
According to picture 3.
The drill can make this step easy, but the rest of us have to do it! -
When you pass halfway, pull the drill out.
This will allow some wood dust to escape this hole, making it unlikely that you will blow out from the bottom.
See my \"How to Fix\" step to see how to fix the shards if this happens to you.
Drilling on the Cross
You drill all the holes in the head/foot board at 4.
5 \", add 2 marks at the end of your long cross
Pieces of the same distance (with 4. 5\" centers).
And drill out about 4 \"(
You can mark your drill bit again for this)-see picture 6.
Tie the two beds together and mark your drill bit at 1.
The final drilling work. (picture 7)
Then get your head/footboard back.
You will attach 3 metal pins between the two beds to keep them tightly glued together.
To do this, you will drill holes at the top of the lower bunk and at the bottom of the upper bunk-
4 metal pins with a total of 8 holes (
See the last picture above. )
Drill 8 holes 1. 5\" deep -
Try to keep the exercise smooth and straight.
It\'s time to put all these pieces together and revel in your great deeds.
First, build the lower berth. (
See Pictures 2 and 3)
Set two ends (
Foot and head board)
And set up two long crosses
Debris on the ground between them.
Either ask someone to help you while you\'re working or support the cross
Punch on something with the same height as your drill.
The final piece should stand up by itself.
Insert the pull bolts with washers into all the holes on the foot and head plate, align the cross holes
Start tightening the bolts one at a time.
It\'s better to loose them all a few laps until you put all the bolts in place, then move around and give them the last few laps to tighten them.
At this point I stuck the mattress on juuussssst to make sure it was appropriate (
I have no doubt at all. . . )
It is optional to have your child climb the ladder at this point.
Fold the bed first, bring your metal pin Rod and cut off 4 3 \"parts with a hacksaw.
You can gently scrub the cut with a little bit of the remaining sandpaper to remove any metal burrs.
Then hammer the pieces into the top of the lower bunk head and foot board. (see picture 1)
For this, you should really have at least one other hand.
The wood is thick, which means heavy, and it can be a bit tricky to row the holes of the metal pins just right, so there is an adult on both ends that is the way to go.
Lift the head of the foot board for the upper bunk and place it on a metal pin.
If you don\'t drill a hole that is completely straight, this may require a little finishing.
Carry a hammer with them, and if they need a little encouragement, don\'t hesitate to give the pin a good heavy blow in the right direction.
Repeat the other end and make sure you put the extra \"safety bar\" on the same side of the bed for both ends! (see picture 4)
Once both ends are on the lower bunk, let your \"helicopter\" lift the crossbars when you insert the lag bolts, align them and tighten them.
Repeat on the other side.
I would suggest assembling this in the bedroom as it is unlikely to go through the assembled door.
I put the second bunk in the garage as we will be moving in a few weeks and will not use it until then anyway. Guys, that\'s it! Hey. . . they happen.
In fact, when I built the bed by drilling some holes in the wrong place, I made a big one (
I drilled the hole in the crossbar too close and the mattress was not suitable for the frame --Doh! )-of course. . .
This is because I\'m too busy thinking about how to write Instructure without paying enough attention to what I\'m actually doing.
Well, since I have to \"fix\" I think I will add a section to help you show how to overcome some of the common \"oop \"(
When I realized I was drilling in the wrong place, it was definitely not the word I used. . .
But you know what I mean. )
Split HolesSee Pictures 1, 2 and 3.
Preventing the rip is the reason I let you drill \"most\" through, then flip your board and finish the drill from the other side.
Even so, division can happen (
I have to fix two pieces. )
When drilling through a large piece of wood, the sawdust can be collected in the hole and additional pressure is generated when drilling.
Pulling the drill bit out of the hole regularly helps clear some sawdust and relieve pressure.
If you don\'t clean up the excess sawdust, you have to push your drill bit harder to keep it moving forward and it\'s harder to stop on the line you draw on the drill bit, causing you to crack at the bottom of the board.
The easiest way to solve this problem is to hide it on another board.
See if you can turn the debris area inside-
If so, the cross.
One piece will be screwed here and the pieces will be hidden. If not, (
Maybe you have pieces everywhere? )
Polish the hole with medium sand paper-
150 sand will work-
Get rid of the worst original edge.
You can do as much sand or less as you like, but remember that the washing machine will partially hide this even outside.
Once ground a little, tap the stain and dry it once.
Where should that hole go? ! ?
See pictures 4, 5 and 6.
So ah, I drilled a few holes in the wrong place. .
So I can teach you how to fix them. . .
Yes, that\'s what I did. . .
OK, maybe I\'m busy thinking about taking pictures and writing this manual, but it doesn\'t get enough attention. . .
Anyway, here\'s how you fix \"holes that shouldn\'t show up \".
Fixed is a round stake of the same size as the hole
In this case, 5/16 \".
It will cost about $3.
Pass the pin through the hole until it reaches out to the other side.
If the hammer is stuck in half, tap gently with the hammerway through.
Use a hacksaw to cut the pin into a suitable size.
Gently sand until smooth and flush with the surrounding Wood.
If there is a gap, some wood filling can be used.
Otherwise it will stain and taste.
Please let me know in the comments if you have any other problems and I can try to troubleshoot.
